Rockfax Description
A great route in a spectacular setting. Take a full trad rack, although the crux sections are protected by bolts or pegs. Start just above a tree below a bolt. Around HVS.
1) 5b, 30m. Climb up to the bolt, make a hard move to a jug and then up to another bolt. Don't follow the next bolts here (this is 6c+) instead traverse left on grassy ledges to a corner and then up to a tree with a good thread above it. Move up past a couple of pegs to a loose spike the belay is up and right past a bolt on a ledge.
2) 5c, 35m. Go right over a rib to gain a groove system. Climb this past on good gear then move left out of the groove to a spike. Make your way up and right on good holds, past a bush, to a old thread. Back this up for an optional belay or link into the next pitch if you have managed your ropes well.
3) 5b, 15m. Go up to an old bolt. Gain a crack and follow this up and right past another bolt. The belay is up and right on a ledge.
4) 5b, 25m. Go up and right from the belay - cam in a pocket protects the move to the first high bolt. Tricky moves past this leads to a easier traverse left - bolt above. Climb up again to another bolt. Above this a further crux on a canaloz (water runnel) leads to a cam slot on the left. Then head up an right to the belay. It is a short scramble from here to the top.
Descent - It is possible to abseil back down if you don't fancy the slightly bush whacking descent. There is a bolt belay a few metres to the right of optional thread belay on pitch 3. © Rockfax

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