There have been serious problems here in the past but access appears less problematic providing climbers keep a low profile. The quarries are owned by Gwynedd Council who make it clear that there is no offical access due to public safety reasons - there are high fences and signs prohibiting access, but there have not been any reports of practical access problems for many years.
In early 2017 planning permisson was granted for a new hydro-electric power station on the site. When works starts on this (unkknow time-scale) its likley that access to some of the quarries will be permenently lost, especially to Mancer and Film Set Quarries as these will become flooded to produce a holding reservoir.
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
- Due to nesting Peregrines and Choughs (both species have legal protection under the Wildlife & Countryside Act), some climbing in the Gideon Quarry (all routes on Gideon Terrace and Cracking up areas) is restricted from March 1st until the end of June.
Neil and Paul Harrison, Fraser Ball 29/Apr/2022.
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Steve Long | 25 Jul, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: Finally I worked out how to gain a very high toe jam, which provided the key for me. I reckon that taller people or those with a wide ape index might be able to reach straight through from the good holds. | ||
Show beta
βeta: Finally I worked out how to gain a very high toe jam, which provided the key for me. I reckon that taller people or those with a wide ape index might be able to reach straight through from the good holds. |
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Grade: 6c+ ***
(Australia)