Rockfax Description
IV, 1000m, 8 - 10 hours. The most reliable route in the face, and hence the most climbed. It's not a bad line either!
Approach - From the Refuge d'Argentière, descend back onto the Glacier d'Argentière and head directly for the routes.
1) Get over the bergschrund and follow snow and névé to gain the entrance to the Messner Ramp. Follow this to reach the main north face icefield. In good conditions, it may be possible to gain the icefield directly but generally the Messner Ramp is the best option. It is 75 - 80 degrees in places and can be mixed when thin.
2) Climb the central icefield, which is sustained at 55 - 60 degrees, but eases slightly towards the top.
3) At the top of the icefield climb the wide left-hand of three gullies (85 degrees) and then head up and right across 80 degree icy mixed terrain to the furthest right runnel of ice.
4) Follow the runnel for 200m up 65 - 75 degree ice to reach the foot of a final steepening.
5) Climb this (85 degrees) for 70m to reach a snowy couloir which is hidden until you reach it.
6) Follow the snowy couloir easily for 100m to reach the Brèche des Droites.
Descent - Go over the summit and down into the Talèfre Basin via a series of 7 or 8 abseils down the south couloir from the Brèche des Droites. Having the ability to make 60m abseils hugely eases the difficulty of this so even if you're planning on only using one rope to climb with, consider taking another (or a tag line) for the descent. Once on the Talèfre Glacier, head for the Refuge du Couvercle and a well-earned kip! © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
IV 5

Jean Ginat, Modica, Simond & Troussier 24/Jul/1978

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Chamonix: Top 50, Alpine Grande Courses

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Hidden ??, 2017 -
Hidden 8 Oct, 2016 AltLd O/S
David Horwood 18 May, 2015 -
Hidden 16 Apr, 2015 AltLd O/S
Hidden 9 Apr, 2015 AltLd
Hidden 9 Apr, 2015 -
stuart34 9 Oct, 2013 2nd Simul climbed/soled and kim led the top ice pitches. 11hrs argentiere hut to Breche de doites. And - since looking at pictures of the route quite possibly off route to the left at the top ish?
with Kim Ladiges
Simul climbed/soled and kim led the top ice pitches. 11hrs argentiere hut to Breche de doites. And - since looking at pictures of the route quite possibly off route to the left at the top ish?
with Kim Ladiges
Stuart Johnston 20 Nov, 2012 - Last pitch had no ice. Big problem
Last pitch had no ice. Big problem
The old James turnbull ?Feb, 2012 AltLd routeepic descent. only people to do it that winter till then. snow up to waist and found a body just to mention a couple of factors.
with rich howells, aiden
routeepic descent. only people to do it that winter till then. snow up to waist and found a body just to mention a couple of factors.
with rich howells, aiden
thebigeasy ?Feb, 2012 -
Graham ??, 2012 -
Hidden 26 Oct, 2011 AltLd O/S
Luke Brooks 17 Oct, 2011 AltLd O/S
with Francis
with Francis
nickdonohue 6 May, 2011 AltLd In good nick, some quite thin ice on steep sections but technically easy as so many steps / hooks from previous ascents.
with Mark McCarthy
In good nick, some quite thin ice on steep sections but technically easy as so many steps / hooks from previous ascents.
with Mark McCarthy
Neil Adams 25 Apr, 2011 AltLd dnf
andyinglis 25 Apr, 2011 AltLd dnf Bailed.
Bailed.
Hidden 17 Apr, 2011 AltLd
Hidden 17 Apr, 2011 AltLd
edek_w 7 Mar, 2011 -
Hidden 8 Feb, 2011 AltLd
Hidden 8 Feb, 2011 AltLd
stevepotter 29 Jan, 2011 2nd Initial difficulty getting over the schrund as it was pretty dry and previous ways over had apparently collapsed. Went to the left 7.5 hours schrund to breche, 3 hours rap to the glacier.
with Matt
Initial difficulty getting over the schrund as it was pretty dry and previous ways over had apparently collapsed. Went to the left 7.5 hours schrund to breche, 3 hours rap to the glacier.
with Matt
Ben Briggs 9 Oct, 2010 AltLd O/S
with Tom
with Tom
Ally Baba 29 Sep, 2010 AltLd O/S Absoultly amazing conditions. Mega route. Got it in 10hrs 22mins! Just a tad of Uli's time.
with Dave Searle
Absoultly amazing conditions. Mega route. Got it in 10hrs 22mins! Just a tad of Uli's time.
with Dave Searle
Dave Searle 29 Sep, 2010 - First grande course. great day out.
First grande course. great day out.
hamish2016 24 Apr, 2010 Lead O/S Reached the breche 2.30pm and after a veeerrryyy long walk down in waist deep slush we reached Chamonix at 10.45pm.
with chris burn
Reached the breche 2.30pm and after a veeerrryyy long walk down in waist deep slush we reached Chamonix at 10.45pm.
with chris burn
frost 14 Apr, 2010 -
with Tom Livingstone
with Tom Livingstone
Dave Almond 19 Mar, 2010 AltLd
with Mark Thomas
with Mark Thomas
Tom Livingstone ?Mar, 2010 AltLd O/S
daveyzxcv 4 Apr, 2009 AltLd
Hidden ?Apr, 2009 AltLd
sgl 13 Oct, 2007 AltLd
with Konnie
with Konnie
Hidden 13 Oct, 2007 AltLd O/S
haydng ?Jun, 2006 AltLd O/S
with Will
with Will
Hidden 20 Mar, 2003 AltLd O/S
morganator ?Mar, 1997 AltLd
Martin Cooper ?Mar, 1997 AltLd O/S What a day Perfect Approach skis to be back in the valley by 7pm
What a day Perfect Approach skis to be back in the valley by 7pm
Hidden ?Jul, 1988 AltLd
Hidden ?Aug, 1982 AltLd O/S
Simon Richardson 25 Mar, 1982 AltLd
with Pat Bailey
with Pat Bailey
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Voting
High ED2
Mid ED2
Low ED2
High ED1
Mid ED1
Low ED1
High TD+
Mid TD+
Low TD+
Votes cast 12
High 6
Mid 6
Low 6
High 5
Mid 5
Low 5
High 4
Mid 4
Low 4
Votes cast 11
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Followed
Lead
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Not Set