35m.
Upper Coves, Lower East face known by local climbers as “Green Cove” overhangs dismally along its entire length. There are no other routes on this wall.
Nevertheless, start on top of the big grassy ledge beside a holly bush below the steepest part of the face.
Climb the wall above moving left through an overlap whilst the holds decease in size up to a very short slab. A long reach allows access onto the slab with a rest and gear.
Move up and right following a series of good holds until stepping back left to a large flake. From the flake quest along the sloping rightward trending break until a long move leads to the break above. Move left through a series of side pulls and undercuts. Another long move to the break above leads to a good hold and good gear. Move left to the last of the quality climbing up the exposed short arête leading to the finish, above a large ledge.
The pitch to the top of the crag turns from quality rock to an exposed & loose vertical heather scramble it is only for those with an insatiable thirst for adventure, for the rest descend from the fixed anchor.
Nevertheless, start on top of the big grassy ledge beside a holly bush below the steepest part of the face.
Climb the wall above moving left through an overlap whilst the holds decease in size up to a very short slab. A long reach allows access onto the slab with a rest and gear.
Move up and right following a series of good holds until stepping back left to a large flake. From the flake quest along the sloping rightward trending break until a long move leads to the break above. Move left through a series of side pulls and undercuts. Another long move to the break above leads to a good hold and good gear. Move left to the last of the quality climbing up the exposed short arête leading to the finish, above a large ledge.
The pitch to the top of the crag turns from quality rock to an exposed & loose vertical heather scramble it is only for those with an insatiable thirst for adventure, for the rest descend from the fixed anchor.
ANDY MARSHALL 04/Sep/2021.
* This newly updated climb is waiting to be checked by the crag moderator.
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Divided Years
Grade: E9 6c ***
(Buzzard's Roost)