70m, 2 pitches. Pitch 1, 35m. Starts on the left hand side of black spout in an obvious bay above the stack. Climb an open corner of ice, followed by a delicate traverse left under a niche with good rock gear. Follow the snow slope above to a belay under an overhang. P2. 35m. Pass overhang on left and traverse right to follow iced slabs straight up to the cornice. Passable on right and left.

Will Attridge and Cameron Richardson 27/Mar/2021.

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Magic Pillar

Grade: IV 5 ***
(Lochnagar)

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