This problem is a combination of Quickbeam Reversed (7a+), Sloper Lip Traverse Reversed (6a) and Tree Beard Reversed (7b+).

Pull up into the big vertical crack to start with both feet on a good ledge. Move the left foot to a little pocket and then reach out to the crimp side pull with the left hand and step the right foot up into another small pocket. From here, aim the left foot towards the slanting ledge under the break and then let go of the crack with the left hand to drop down onto the right foot while just holding the crimp. Then, reach up and across to a small crimp with the right hand and bump the left hand down onto a different lower side pull crimp while bringing the right foot across to the slanting ledge to then bump the right hand down onto the first crimp used. Walk the feet up the ledge and then drop the right leg down and do a big reach across to the scooped dish. Once gained, switch feet and drop the left leg down and then reach the right hand back to a lower side pull crimp to then move the left foot onto a small but good rounded edge, while bringing the right hand across to match. Next, switch feet and step the left up to a good foothold and then cross the right hand underneath to find a small crimp on the left side of the scooped dish. Finally, reach across to a good crimp in the break, switch feet and drop the left down to a good low edge while letting go with the right hand, then switch hands in the crimp and reach to the big ledge/jug, cross over the feet and step through to then match with the right hand. From here, traverse the Sloper Lip Traverse Reversed (6a) and once the low side pull jug at the usual start of Sloper Lip is gained, pull up into the good two handed ledge and work back along the line of crimps using small feet and cross overs. Once the good edge for feet is gained, reach across with the left hand to a poor crimp and drop down to reach a slopey undercling to then gain a small low edge for the right foot. From here, throw into a good crimp under the roof, step up and across onto small edges for the feet, then switch hands in the wide crimp and make a big move to a pocket, then switch feet on a tiny edge to place the left foot into the crack. Next, drop the left foot out the crack and bump the hand along to a smaller crimp, then match hands in the small pocket and place the right right foot in the crack to help catch the next small hold with the left hand. Finally, make a big powerful move to the obvious jug, swing both feet across, flag and match hands.

Again, an eliminate, but it contains really nice technical, powerful and sustained climbing. No roof jugs or big ledge for feet allowed on Tree Beard Reversed. Awareness of body tension and clever footwork are paramount.

The grade is french 8a due to the length of the route & rests.

Craig MacLeod 08/Apr/2021.

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Route of Interest
Off the Beaten Track

Grade: 8a ***
(Glen Ogle Sport Crags)

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