Restricted Access
WARNING- (see comments) The semi-detached boss at the left of the crag is moving away and will eventually fall apart. Please DO NOT climb or hang on it - if you pull it off, it could kill you.
No problems with access. From Edinburgh head to Blackford hill. The quarry can be found on the south side besides Blackford Glen.
Park either in the Edinburgh Observatory car park, on Braid Hills drive or on Blackford Glen Road - park in designated areas, don't block the access to the farms and to Edinburgh Council waste centre.
*Eliminate* Sit start matched on a large undercut, make a desperate move to the pinch with the left hand then come in a match next to it on a cement crimp. Reach out left to a triangular spike/pinch and make a hard move with the right hand to a bad sloper. From here flick up to a good sloper and finish as for Lock Reloaded.
*Large ledges are out of bounds for feet (heel-toe hook/cam ledges), using these makes the climbing much easier, see photo for reference*
Video here -> https://www.instagram.com/p/CMO70Q2jwsL/?hl=en
*Large ledges are out of bounds for feet (heel-toe hook/cam ledges), using these makes the climbing much easier, see photo for reference*
Video here -> https://www.instagram.com/p/CMO70Q2jwsL/?hl=en
Nick Rodger 09/Mar/2021.
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