This problem is a combination of Tree Beard (7b), Sloper Lip Traverse (6a) and Quickbeam (7a+).
On the boulder wall at the very far left, sit start from the obvious low jug then follow the line of crimps below the roof jugs, and traverse through crimps on long powerful lock-off's to reach a slopey undercling with the right hand. Make a difficult move to a poor crimp, then back up into a line of crimps to reach a good two handed ledge in the same break, just below the obvious finishing jugs for Tree Beard. Instead of moving up as for Tree Beard, reach down to a good undercling with the right hand, then climb down and gain the sloping ledge with both hands to start the Sloper Lip Traverse (6a). After the slopers turn to good jugs and the big corner jug/ledge is reached, move round onto the last section of the wall to a good crimp in the obvious main break, then switch hands and make a big move to the scooped slopey ledge and cross over. From here, reach across to a crimp side pull to get wide and low feet, then reverse that right hand back into a crimp/gaston and make a hard move to cross over with the left hand to another crimp/gaston. From the double crossed gaston extend the right foot again to get an even wider stance and make a powerful move to a small pocket with the right hand. Once gained, bump the left foot across to switch feet and step up to a good ledge with the right, to then make a difficult move to the gain the big vertical crack to finish.
An eliminate but has surprisingly good, powerful and sustained climbing. No roof jugs or big ledge for feet allowed on the Tree Beard section (sneaky heel-hook beta makes all the difference here). For the Quickbeam section, do not use any of the easier underclings beneath or above the break or roof jugs near the crack (all feet are in here but clever switching, bumping and flagging are key to solving the problem).
The grade is french 7c+ due to the length of the route & rests.
On the boulder wall at the very far left, sit start from the obvious low jug then follow the line of crimps below the roof jugs, and traverse through crimps on long powerful lock-off's to reach a slopey undercling with the right hand. Make a difficult move to a poor crimp, then back up into a line of crimps to reach a good two handed ledge in the same break, just below the obvious finishing jugs for Tree Beard. Instead of moving up as for Tree Beard, reach down to a good undercling with the right hand, then climb down and gain the sloping ledge with both hands to start the Sloper Lip Traverse (6a). After the slopers turn to good jugs and the big corner jug/ledge is reached, move round onto the last section of the wall to a good crimp in the obvious main break, then switch hands and make a big move to the scooped slopey ledge and cross over. From here, reach across to a crimp side pull to get wide and low feet, then reverse that right hand back into a crimp/gaston and make a hard move to cross over with the left hand to another crimp/gaston. From the double crossed gaston extend the right foot again to get an even wider stance and make a powerful move to a small pocket with the right hand. Once gained, bump the left foot across to switch feet and step up to a good ledge with the right, to then make a difficult move to the gain the big vertical crack to finish.
An eliminate but has surprisingly good, powerful and sustained climbing. No roof jugs or big ledge for feet allowed on the Tree Beard section (sneaky heel-hook beta makes all the difference here). For the Quickbeam section, do not use any of the easier underclings beneath or above the break or roof jugs near the crack (all feet are in here but clever switching, bumping and flagging are key to solving the problem).
The grade is french 7c+ due to the length of the route & rests.
Craig MacLeod 26/Feb/2021.
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Route of Interest
The Silk Purse
Grade: 7c+ ***
(Dunkeld, Cave Crag)