Due to suspect rock and the proximity of the public road, climbing is only permitted on routes which are between the green painted marker posts and have fixed lower-offs. Routes and areas of cliff between the red painted posts are banned due to instable rock and the risk of falling rock injuring passers-by. All routes finish at BMC installed and maintained lower-offs - and on no account should climbers continue beyond these to the top of the crag due to the increased risk of falling rock and to protect rare and protected plant species.
No climbing on the routes above the Marine drive before 6pm between July15th until Sept 8th this includes Mayfair Wall, the restriction extends to bank holiday weekends as well. Please adhere to this agreement (due to public safety issues during busy times) as it has taken a lot of work to secure access to these crags.
All the bouldering and the climbing in Parisellas's Cave and Mumbo-Jumbo areas are however permitted.
Dates: 25 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Choughs, which have special legal protection under the Wildlife and Countryside Act are nesting in the Testament area. Please avoid climbing (including bouldering) in the area between and including the routes "Testament" to "Lyon's Share" until the end of June.
An additional restriction on Excursion Wall for No Bark, No Dill to Call it Black (Inclusive) due to a new nesting Choughs site.
Rockfax Description
A small corner leads easily to the mid-height ledge. Step left and move steeply up a shallow groove and wall to a lower-off. © Rockfax
The Orme 7a+'s , North Wales Rock Graded List , ... And One For The Crow , North Wales Limestone 7a to 7b
User | Date | Notes | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
Jen333 | 7 Sep, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Lower off has now been moved lower during annual lower off inspection due to deteriorating rock placement above. Bolt has also been added on midway traverse. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Lower off has now been moved lower during annual lower off inspection due to deteriorating rock placement above. Bolt has also been added on midway traverse. |
||||
LRob | 24 Mar, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Someone has moved the lower off a couple of feet higher. Although nice in terms of adding a move it now means you have to make moves on slightly snappy holds to clip the chains. A fall from here would be long. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Someone has moved the lower off a couple of feet higher. Although nice in terms of adding a move it now means you have to make moves on slightly snappy holds to clip the chains. A fall from here would be long. |
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Grade: 7a+ ***
(Notice Board Crag)