600m, 4 pitches.
This may be the best 'classic' (as opposed to modern) alpine route in Colorado. Never hard (5.5, M3, AI2+, III, ~AD) but varied, exposed, complete, and tops out an iconic summit.
Route begins at Chasm lake below the diamond by climbing 200m up Lambslide (35 degree snow) to broadway. Broadway is an exposed 4th class ledge, best simuled or soloed, which leads to the entrance to the couloir. Follow the couloir to the namesake notch on the ridgeline. You will encounter AI2+ and M3 terrain (or steep snow, depending on season). Route finding to the notch is trivial although you will have some decisions to make regarding the best way to negotiate certain rock chokes (the M3) along the way. The couloir itself is around 300-400m. Mixed terrain is more fun with two tools, however route could be climbed in style using a single hybrid piolet.
From the top of the couloir multiple options exist for descent. The most aesthetic involves topping out Longs, which can be done by traversing out along the east face by following a ledge from the top of the notch around a blind corner. After turning the corner you will see a french 3/YDS 5.4 "chimney" (too wide to actually use any chimney technique) which will take you to the ridge crest after 30m of rock or mixed climbing. The chimney is guarded by a bit of friction slab, which may cause you to hesitate if you're unsure about the route finding, so take note. Scramble along the ridge to the summit plateau. From the summit, descend via the north face cables route. A single 70m rope should suffice (but double check elsewhere, we used a 60m and tagline and skipped some eyebolts on the way down to expedite things).
Best climbed in fall, once the couloir has had a chance to form up some ice. During the spring and into the summer it's a snow slog. At some point late summer/early fall it turns to ice, but broadway melts out and becomes a grassy ledge. Once the first snow arrives, but before avalanche conditions occur (September to November generally), is the best time to go. During the winter the notch is an avalanche trap with a tendency to flush itself out at unpredictable intervals.
Route begins at Chasm lake below the diamond by climbing 200m up Lambslide (35 degree snow) to broadway. Broadway is an exposed 4th class ledge, best simuled or soloed, which leads to the entrance to the couloir. Follow the couloir to the namesake notch on the ridgeline. You will encounter AI2+ and M3 terrain (or steep snow, depending on season). Route finding to the notch is trivial although you will have some decisions to make regarding the best way to negotiate certain rock chokes (the M3) along the way. The couloir itself is around 300-400m. Mixed terrain is more fun with two tools, however route could be climbed in style using a single hybrid piolet.
From the top of the couloir multiple options exist for descent. The most aesthetic involves topping out Longs, which can be done by traversing out along the east face by following a ledge from the top of the notch around a blind corner. After turning the corner you will see a french 3/YDS 5.4 "chimney" (too wide to actually use any chimney technique) which will take you to the ridge crest after 30m of rock or mixed climbing. The chimney is guarded by a bit of friction slab, which may cause you to hesitate if you're unsure about the route finding, so take note. Scramble along the ridge to the summit plateau. From the summit, descend via the north face cables route. A single 70m rope should suffice (but double check elsewhere, we used a 60m and tagline and skipped some eyebolts on the way down to expedite things).
Best climbed in fall, once the couloir has had a chance to form up some ice. During the spring and into the summer it's a snow slog. At some point late summer/early fall it turns to ice, but broadway melts out and becomes a grassy ledge. Once the first snow arrives, but before avalanche conditions occur (September to November generally), is the best time to go. During the winter the notch is an avalanche trap with a tendency to flush itself out at unpredictable intervals.
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