Restricted Access

The site is part of a Local Nature Reserve and the quarry floor below Main Wall provides an important orchid habitat - please avoid this area from April-June inclusive.

There is a bolting agreement for some agreed routes from Modern Wall rightwards, any future bolting development needs to be discussed with the local BMC access rep and potentially the landowner before any work.

The roof of the cave left of Gouffle is thought to be unstable and is being monitored by Lancashire County Council. Please take care not to damage the rock or indicators measuring any movement. 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 14 February to 1 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

During the nesting season each year, climbing in Warton Main is restricted for the whole quarry including the Terrace, to prevent disturbance of peregrines and other birds. Thank you for following the restrictions. The BMC has a good relationship with interested parties locally, birds are actively monitored and if fledging birds allow, the restrictions will be lifted early and this page updated.

 

50m, 2 pitches. The next big slab left of the classic Deceptive Bends.
1.15m Climb the cracked chossy wall moving right at the top. Cross unstable ground to belay on a tree under the main slab.
2. 40m Climb the absorbing slab passing a couple of overlaps. Take care with the rock near the top.

K. Phizacklea 2015.

Ticklists

Lakes Sport and Slate Top 50 , All multi-pitch sport routes (England and Wales)

Feedback

User Date Notes
Col Kingshott 16 Aug, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: 16 Aug 22 - loose rock (a lot) and vegetation cleared from crag face & top out. More loose rock will probably be there. Best approach is to rap into the large ledge at the top of P1, I haven’t (and won’t) clear the bottom pitch. Use the same ab point as The Third World but go rightwards (facing down) instead of leftwards.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: 16 Aug 22 - loose rock (a lot) and vegetation cleared from crag face & top out. More loose rock will probably be there. Best approach is to rap into the large ledge at the top of P1, I haven’t (and won’t) clear the bottom pitch. Use the same ab point as The Third World but go rightwards (facing down) instead of leftwards.

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