350m, 11 pitches.
11 pitches of beautiful arete climbing on mostly very nice gneiss. Great views and photo opps. Starts at the breche de Ponset at 2637m, finishes at the summit 2828m. Most pitches graded at 4 or 5/5+ with a few easier sections and pitch 10 crux at 5c+/6a.
5m abseil after pitch 7.
Works well with 50m single. Bolts on harder bits and some belays, otherwise on cams and slings.
Descent is nice walk off then boulder field before eventually rejoining the "baisse de cinq Lacs" path. First few pitches pretty shady so beware chilly hands in the morning. Stiff walk in 750m ascent from the Vacherie de la madone and past the cayres de madone then up steep grassy/rocky couloir to reach the breche (about 2h).
5m abseil after pitch 7.
Works well with 50m single. Bolts on harder bits and some belays, otherwise on cams and slings.
Descent is nice walk off then boulder field before eventually rejoining the "baisse de cinq Lacs" path. First few pitches pretty shady so beware chilly hands in the morning. Stiff walk in 750m ascent from the Vacherie de la madone and past the cayres de madone then up steep grassy/rocky couloir to reach the breche (about 2h).
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Route of Interest
Éperon Ouest
Grade: D+ ***
(Cayre de la Madone)