Start at the left hand side of the left hand traverse wall, just to the left of the arete on a big undercut. Traverse the left hand wall from left to right using a series of low holds (Ogmore Estuary left hand traverse without the large hold halfway along to a hands off rest in a groove, swing round right onto the low holds on the right hand face and move to a jug, traverse right on low holds (missing dirty loose juggy ledge above for the hands and the obvious ledge for your feet halfway across second half of route) using a mix of pockets and crimps and a hidden undercut to an incipient crack (good shakeout). Continue at the same using sloping finger holds and a small layaway to gain good finger edges to the left of a tuft of grass, drop down to good holds in a crack and hand traverse rounded holds to an obvious pull up to a juggy break. Circa 55 moves. Would warrant 3 stars if it wasn't an eliminate in some parts. Worthwhile, climbed in 1995.

Eugene Travers Jones Mar/1995.

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High 7c
Mid 7c
Low 7c
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
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High 7b
Mid 7b
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Style of Ascent
Bouldered
Lead
Redpoint
DNF
Route of Interest
Cure for the Cancer

Grade: 7b+ ***
(Ogmore (Main))

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