18 pitches. A hidden gem, only somewhat spoiled by the huge number of bolts on the route. From the Anenhutte, walk up the moraine, then cut left below the SE ridge across a boulder field, heading for the highest gully (the base of the route is marked with a red dot). Follow regular bolts up straightforward slabby ground to the first belay in an alcove. Then make an awkward move left to exit the alcove and surmount a block. Continue leftwards up slabs to the col. From here, trend left up an open corner, eventually gaining the ridge crest via some superb flakes. After reaching the top of a gendarme, scramble down on the left (red arrow) to gain the flat, narrow ridge crest. Follow this as it becomes increasingly blocky and broad over short-lived difficulties to the summit. From the summit follow cairns and red dots down the broad crest, then red bolts when the crest narrows. After reaching an optional abseil (down climbing a slight chimney on the right is also possible and straightforward), continue following cairns and red dots to the first of five abseils. Descend these into a couloir, follow this back to the moraine.

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