500m, 5 pitches.
Base camp - Laguna Choco Khota (4,400m)
From base camp a two hour trek leads to a good bivvi site below the glacier.
Gain the snout of the glacier via a short ice filled stream bed.
Follow the dry glacier rightwards below the rocky buttress to a bergschrund below a steep couloir.
Above the bergschrund five pitches of steep well protected climbing leads to a shattered ridge.
A 50m rappel down a loose gully to the north gains access to a horizontal traverse, follow this to the west until a rocky gully leads up to the summit ridge.
Descend via the South West face route.
From base camp a two hour trek leads to a good bivvi site below the glacier.
Gain the snout of the glacier via a short ice filled stream bed.
Follow the dry glacier rightwards below the rocky buttress to a bergschrund below a steep couloir.
Above the bergschrund five pitches of steep well protected climbing leads to a shattered ridge.
A 50m rappel down a loose gully to the north gains access to a horizontal traverse, follow this to the west until a rocky gully leads up to the summit ridge.
Descend via the South West face route.
Martin Scrowston, Mike Hope 13/Jun/2019.
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Route of Interest
West Face
Grade: TD ***
(Huyana Potosi)