7m.

Rockfax Description
The central off-width crack has an exquisite start and is worthy of a route grade (Sev). © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Javu P11, Climbers Club Dartmoor (2017) P10, Boulder Britain (2011) P4.

HS 4c as a route.

A brilliant & one of a kind climb for sub E4 climbers on Saddle Tor!
Enter the chimney via a tip-toe reach to a mini jug on the left face. Wriggle up the holdless chimney to crack 3/4m up allowing for a good no hands rest, take a breather & continue to wriggle, the wedged boulder at the top provides a good hand hold but in an awkward position.

While gear is present it is sparse & wont help the wriggling. The wedged boulder would allow for a good thread placement. Probably best treated as solo.

Ticklists

40 For 40

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Voting
High f4
Mid f4
Low f4
High f3+
Mid f3+
Low f3+
High f3
Mid f3
Low f3
Votes cast 12
Style of Ascent
Soloed
Bouldered
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Redpoint
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Original Crack

Grade: f3+ ***
(Smallacombe Rocks)

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