Rockfax Description
The central off-width crack has an exquisite start and is worthy of a route grade (Sev). © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Javu P11, Climbers Club Dartmoor (2017) P10, Boulder Britain (2011) P4.
HS 4c as a route.
A brilliant & one of a kind climb for sub E4 climbers on Saddle Tor!
Enter the chimney via a tip-toe reach to a mini jug on the left face. Wriggle up the holdless chimney to crack 3/4m up allowing for a good no hands rest, take a breather & continue to wriggle, the wedged boulder at the top provides a good hand hold but in an awkward position.
While gear is present it is sparse & wont help the wriggling. The wedged boulder would allow for a good thread placement. Probably best treated as solo.
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Grade: f3+ ***
(Smallacombe Rocks)