270m, 8 pitches.
Another contender for the best route on the crag. It is moderately direct and follows its crack line course right of a large dièdre in the middle of the wall with steep and sustained climbing. The second pitch features 20m of fist jamming. Regarding protection it is good with bolts, albeit spaced. Take a rack of nuts and Friends up to 3 1/2 plus one or two Camalots, size 2 or 3, for pitch 2.
Nasi Goreng is an Indonesian breakfast dish by the way.
Access: As for A Kind Of Magic but continue along the cliff base to another red mark (15 minutes). To help locate it, look for a large and long dièdre in the middle of the cliff right of A Kind Of Magic. Start below and right of this at a rounded grey/green pillar. That is where the red mark should be.
Description: (Treat with caution.)
1. VI 40m. Ascend the line of the pillar (VI, 3 bolts), great friction climbing for c20m, and enter the large dièdre, grassy at this point. Climb up easily leftwards over a slab (IV)to a stance by the foot of the second of two parallel cracks.
2. VI+ 20m. Climb up the fist-sized crack for 20m (no fixed pro; Friend 4 or similar Hex useful plus Camalots) to a stance.
3. VI 30m. Climb a 20m dièdre featuring two parallel cracks (1 bolt) and then up leftwards to a comfortable terrace. (See picture on page 137.)
4. V+ 30m. Climb another fist-sized crack for about 10m and get over a block and then go leftwards more easily to a stance in an overhung chimney.
5. VI+ 45m. Get up to the overhang and then go over its right-hand extremity (VI+). Follow a crack/dièdre for c20 metres to a roof. Get over this (overhanging spike?) on the left (VI+, 3 bolts) and return to the flake crack. Climb this to a ledge which goes right to a stance.
6. V+ 45m. Back left on the ledge for c8 metres then climb up a dièdre diagonally left towards a slab featuring large flakes. When under a prominent tower avoid an edge/arête on the left (sling, IV) then climb up to a large block. Climb up a wall/rib and thin flakes to a stance by a tree.
7. II 15m. Climbing unstable rock and a grassy ramp go up leftwards then right over a scree cone on another grass ramp (?) to reach a good ledge under the final wall (pegs). You can climb up to the N Ridge from here by going left and then up via an obvious break to avoid the final and not well protected lichenous slab.
8. VI 35m. Climb up directly and with difficulty (VI) 2m to a short crack. Follow the crack system to a slight ledge (V+, bolt) and then head directly, possibly rightwards, and over flakes (sling) for a thin and bold lichenous slab and the top.
9. III. Now climb easier rock to gain the N Ridge.
Descent: Descend the N Ridge to the top of Via Da Capo. Abseil down it. Alternatively, go down the grassy bay to the south and get to the top of the Via Felici and then abseil down the chimney on its south side.
Nasi Goreng is an Indonesian breakfast dish by the way.
Access: As for A Kind Of Magic but continue along the cliff base to another red mark (15 minutes). To help locate it, look for a large and long dièdre in the middle of the cliff right of A Kind Of Magic. Start below and right of this at a rounded grey/green pillar. That is where the red mark should be.
Description: (Treat with caution.)
1. VI 40m. Ascend the line of the pillar (VI, 3 bolts), great friction climbing for c20m, and enter the large dièdre, grassy at this point. Climb up easily leftwards over a slab (IV)to a stance by the foot of the second of two parallel cracks.
2. VI+ 20m. Climb up the fist-sized crack for 20m (no fixed pro; Friend 4 or similar Hex useful plus Camalots) to a stance.
3. VI 30m. Climb a 20m dièdre featuring two parallel cracks (1 bolt) and then up leftwards to a comfortable terrace. (See picture on page 137.)
4. V+ 30m. Climb another fist-sized crack for about 10m and get over a block and then go leftwards more easily to a stance in an overhung chimney.
5. VI+ 45m. Get up to the overhang and then go over its right-hand extremity (VI+). Follow a crack/dièdre for c20 metres to a roof. Get over this (overhanging spike?) on the left (VI+, 3 bolts) and return to the flake crack. Climb this to a ledge which goes right to a stance.
6. V+ 45m. Back left on the ledge for c8 metres then climb up a dièdre diagonally left towards a slab featuring large flakes. When under a prominent tower avoid an edge/arête on the left (sling, IV) then climb up to a large block. Climb up a wall/rib and thin flakes to a stance by a tree.
7. II 15m. Climbing unstable rock and a grassy ramp go up leftwards then right over a scree cone on another grass ramp (?) to reach a good ledge under the final wall (pegs). You can climb up to the N Ridge from here by going left and then up via an obvious break to avoid the final and not well protected lichenous slab.
8. VI 35m. Climb up directly and with difficulty (VI) 2m to a short crack. Follow the crack system to a slight ledge (V+, bolt) and then head directly, possibly rightwards, and over flakes (sling) for a thin and bold lichenous slab and the top.
9. III. Now climb easier rock to gain the N Ridge.
Descent: Descend the N Ridge to the top of Via Da Capo. Abseil down it. Alternatively, go down the grassy bay to the south and get to the top of the Via Felici and then abseil down the chimney on its south side.
R. Bosch and H. Furrer 20/Jun/1982.
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Route of Interest
NE Direct (Nigg)
Grade: 6a ***
(Spazzacaldera)