11 pitches. 1. From Kaldedalen follow the tractor road round Koldedalsvatnet until it is possible to cut up diagonally above a mountain hut and join Falkbreen (glacier) at its eastern snout. From here head to the base of Falkeungen, firstly on the glacier and finally along the east ridge that is often quite sharp before reaching the rock. The crevasse between the snow and the rock can be a little bit cheeky at times.

2. Climb Falkeungen to the start of the narrow ridge in 4 pitches:
2.1) Climb directly up, grade 3
2.2) Climb diagonally left up a ramp, grade 2/3 to a gravelly ledge on the southeast of the ridge below a slabby corner.

3. Climb the corner and above. Grade 4+.

4. Continue climbing over broken ground until the ridge becomes more defined.

5. Follow the ridge, with interest in two pitches until you reach the summit of Falkeungen proper. Airy. Grade 3+.

6. Descend the west ridge, scrambling with two short abseils, towards Falketind and set up a belay where the ridge proper joins Falketind. It might be able to avoid the two abseils by down climbing.

7. Traverse approximately 20m south over a loose ledge at the base of the cliff and climb loose cracks, chimneys for a long 50m pitch. Do not be tempted to move the belay as there has been at least one incidence of rock fall cutting a rope on this pitch. Grade 5-, 50m. There is an alternative to climbing more solid rock approximately 15m from the belay, up some grooves at 5+.

8. Continue climbing up until it is possible to climb left to a ridge that overlooks a loose hanging gully. Grade 4+, 40m.

7. Ascend the gully taking the easiest line in 2-3 pitches to the shoulder below the top of Falketind. Grade 3, 140m.

Descent: 1) the normal route 2) Pioneers Route

Feedback Always Hide βeta

1 users have logged this