From 1998 so may be inaccurate! From the refuge between the two Iliniza peaks, ascend west to a flat area, then continue in the same direction, making a slightly rising traverse until reaching a steep gully which accesses the glacier. Turn left up the glacier, which is followed directly to the summit ridge. It is steep in places, and in 1998 required going into a crevasse with a few metres at around 70 degrees to exit. Turn right and find the easiest route through the magnificent summit ice formation, probably by traversing below it on the right.
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| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| stratandrew | 5 Nov, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: The steep pitch of ice on the ramp is only 30m to 40m and perhaps the grade of AD is justified if there is little neve. The descent can be rapelled or belay down from a snowstake above the ice. The 1998 description of steep ice near the top seems incorrect now. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: The steep pitch of ice on the ramp is only 30m to 40m and perhaps the grade of AD is justified if there is little neve. The descent can be rapelled or belay down from a snowstake above the ice. The 1998 description of steep ice near the top seems incorrect now. |
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