150m, 5 pitches. A wild trip that may feel high or low in the grade depending on availability of big cams. Easier exit options than Pitch 4 exist, amid much potential in this area.

Scramble up into the amphitheatre to gain the highest grassy rake, which leads up left to a corner/ chimney below the line of the big overlap.

1. 4a. 30m Easily up the corner and crack to another grassy ledge
2. 5b. 30m Follow the corner at the junction of slab and overlap up and right to a belay at a big horizontal break.
3. 5c. 30m Continue in the same line, crossing an overlap and some blank slabs to belay at the niche below the prow.
4. 6b. 25m Your mate’s lead… from the right, a crimpy lurch gains good holds at the base of the off-width crack. Follow this, steady moves but with increasing excitement due to the limited protection and outrageous position, to gain the slab. Belay well back.
5. 4b. 40m Up the slab to gain another corner system trending rightwards to large grassy ledges.
Descent - follow the ledges off left to gain a gully-line leading back down to the starting edge system.

Adam Long, Ben Bransby (AL) 09/May/2017.

Feedback Always Hide βeta

2 users have logged this