ESK BUTTRESS 225 feet. Very difficult. Boots. First ascent 17th
CHIMNEY BUTTRESS September, 1944. R. J. Birkett, T. H. The climb
follows the rib on the right-hand side of the left
Esk Chimney.
(1) 90 feet. Up the rib, steep at first but eases at 50 feet when easier
climbing leads to a stance and belay where the rib steepens again.
(2) 40 feet. From the belay climb straight up to a juniper ledge 40 feet
above. Small belay high up.
(3) 25 feet. Steep rock climbed slightly right to another juniper ledge.
Block belay a few feet to the left.
(4) 40 feet. A steep groove at the right-hand end of the ledge is climbed
to a small stance with a perfect flake belay.
(5) 30 feet. Climb the obvious groove to the overhanging blocks which
are climbed on the right (good holds) finish on a boulder-strewn
ledge.
Scrambling leads to the top of the buttress.
CHIMNEY BUTTRESS September, 1944. R. J. Birkett, T. H. The climb
follows the rib on the right-hand side of the left
Esk Chimney.
(1) 90 feet. Up the rib, steep at first but eases at 50 feet when easier
climbing leads to a stance and belay where the rib steepens again.
(2) 40 feet. From the belay climb straight up to a juniper ledge 40 feet
above. Small belay high up.
(3) 25 feet. Steep rock climbed slightly right to another juniper ledge.
Block belay a few feet to the left.
(4) 40 feet. A steep groove at the right-hand end of the ledge is climbed
to a small stance with a perfect flake belay.
(5) 30 feet. Climb the obvious groove to the overhanging blocks which
are climbed on the right (good holds) finish on a boulder-strewn
ledge.
Scrambling leads to the top of the buttress.
Jim Birkett 1944.
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Guidebooks for Esk Buttress (Dow Crag)
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Route of Interest
'C' Ordinary Route (Summer)
Grade: VD ***
(Dow Crag)