Restricted Access
Surrounded by fantastic beaches the popular climbing area of Baggy point features excellent slab climbing on metamorphosed sandstone. With grades ranging from Mod to E7 with several routes graded XS. Have a look at the climbing on Cheesegrater Cliff and Concrete wall for something much more adventurous.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 15 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Following a review of climbing restrictions at Baggy Point, the historical restriction on the Long Rock was lifted in 2013. This means that both the Long Rock and the Promontory are unrestricted, but the remaining climbing areas from Scrattling Zawn to Concrete Wall inclusive and Central Walls to Slab Cove inclusive are still restricted for the duration of the nesting season.
There is still a slightly confusing white marker at the top of the descent to the Long Rock, however the restriction definitely no longer applies to this part of the headland. The National Trust are aware of this and will move the marker at some point in the future, but given a busy summer work schedule this may not be for some time. In the meantime, please feel free to access this part of the crag. Many thanks to the National Trust for their help with this.
P1. Start just left of the bottom of the descent gully. Climb the thin crack (poor pro) to the quartzy break. Traverse left to another thin crack and move up to a horizontal break. Continue left across In Her Eyes and into the Marion crack to belay a little lower.
P2. Traverse horizontally left across the slab, along a bulge passing an undercut flake at foot level to the left hand crack (Ben). Continue traversing left to a large undercut flake and the arête of Freddie. Finish up this.
Ticklists
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Gary Gibson | 9 Jan |
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βeta: First ascent GaryGibson with Phil Wilson | βeta? | |
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βeta: First ascent GaryGibson with Phil Wilson |
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| Mr MRS | 23 Aug, 2019 |
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βeta: The climbers club Topo makes it look like the start is way over to the right but I think a good few metres left of this would have been correct. The \"obvious bulge\" isn\'t obvious at all. Definitely added a grade going off course. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The climbers club Topo makes it look like the start is way over to the right but I think a good few metres left of this would have been correct. The "obvious bulge" isn't obvious at all. Definitely added a grade going off course. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Baggy Point
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Lost Horizon
Grade: VS 5a ***
(Baggy Point)