Rockfax Description
The original well-named route on the pillar follows slabs and grooves on the left-hand side.
1) N5+, 35m. Up slabs and a groove and move right to a stance.
2) N6, 40m. Follow cracks leftwards, then climb to a good ledge.
3) N6/A2, 25m. Cracks lead rightwards to a groove with a stance part way up it.
4) A2, 30m. Continue up the groove and cracks mostly on aid.
5) A1, 40m. Climb the crack above the stance, move right to another crack, then back again a little higher. When the crack ends, move left to a third crack which leads to a chimney and a big ledge.
6) A2, 25m. Take cracks right to a ledge under a big groove.
7) N6+, 40m. The long groove with a thin crack in its back gives a fine hard pitch - small cams are very helpful.
8) A1, 15m. Trend left, then back right to a ledge.
9) N3, 50m. Easy ground leads right then left to a large ledge.
10) N3, 45m. More easy ground leads to the top. © Rockfax
FA. Ole-Bj?rnar Norstad, Jonas Tetlie 7.2000 15/Jul/2000.
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Grade: n6+ ***
(Djupfjord)