The BMC has negotiated with the landowner and secured an access agreement, but this is dependent on the continuing responsible behavior of climbers.
Local cavers have an agreement with the landowner to manage recreation in the quarry through the Fairy Cave Management Committee. They have been extremely supportive of climber’s efforts to secure access and without their support it is unlikely we would have been successful. Mark Courtiour (BMC Access Rep) has been co-opted onto the Management Committee but the cavers have overall responsibility for recreational use of the quarry.
Maintaining our good relationship with the cavers is important, as is following a few simple points within our access agreement:
Descents:
Movement around the top of some areas of the quarry can be difficult and local climbers have established abseil descents from all popular areas. Please do not remove these fixtures. Most lower offs/abseil points have been renewed and stakes have been installed above Robs Crack and Lumbar Puncture/Epic Dural. As always with fixed equipment, be sure to thoroughly inspect all parts of an anchor before committing to using it.
Rockfax Description
Pleasant climbing with an initially bold section. Climb with care direct to a shallow circular niche. Continue to just short of the corner and then pursue a line up right to meet Rob's Crack. Climb direct up the wall left of Rob's Crack to the top. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Start on the left side of the slab and climb boldly to a blast-shattered alcove. Climb up, veer rightwards as you near the corner, and traverse delicately right to join Rob's Crack where it bends right. Leave that route and climb direct to the top.
FA. M.Raine, M.Hammill 06/Apr/2002.
Fairy Cave Quarry Top 20 , Fairy Cave Quarry - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock , Fairy Cave Quarry VS-E1 Challenge , Top 25 E Grades in the southwest
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Tall Oak | 2 Jun, 2022 |
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βeta: Keep it together and trust those feet. Classic FCQ! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Keep it together and trust those feet. Classic FCQ! |
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Gingerlings | 23 Oct, 2021 |
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βeta: The grade is just for the start really, after that it eases off | ||
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βeta: The grade is just for the start really, after that it eases off |
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Zhi Yuan | 1 Aug, 2021 |
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βeta: Cracks at the top are full of mud and vegetation | βeta? | |
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βeta: Cracks at the top are full of mud and vegetation |
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Labergorce | 15 Jun, 2021 |
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βeta: Great route, bold and 5b to the shothole but then pretty straightforward afterwards. Although not a great deal of gear. The top half is very vegetated reducing the gear to one piece after leaving Rob\'s Crack! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Great route, bold and 5b to the shothole but then pretty straightforward afterwards. Although not a great deal of gear. The top half is very vegetated reducing the gear to one piece after leaving Rob's Crack! |
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NJaycock | 18 Apr, 2021 |
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βeta: While the start is bold a fall is pretty safe with a spotter. | βeta? | |
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βeta: While the start is bold a fall is pretty safe with a spotter. |
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Hal Mungbean | 14 Jul, 2020 |
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βeta: Lots of mud in placements on upper half - nut key advised | βeta? | |
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βeta: Lots of mud in placements on upper half - nut key advised |
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Mr Slippery | 4 Aug, 2019 |
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βeta: As per other reviews, a bold start, slightly harder imo for the shorter reach climber. Past the start still a thinker but gear good. | βeta? | |
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βeta: As per other reviews, a bold start, slightly harder imo for the shorter reach climber. Past the start still a thinker but gear good. |
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powelli | 29 Apr, 2019 |
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βeta: Very thin and smeary at the start, clean your shoes and climb carefully to the alcove. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Very thin and smeary at the start, clean your shoes and climb carefully to the alcove. |
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Ashley King | 24 Apr, 2019 |
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βeta: Once you get into robs crack all of the hard bits are done and there\'s loads of good protection. | ||
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βeta: Once you get into robs crack all of the hard bits are done and there's loads of good protection. |
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Grade: E1 5c ***
(Cheddar Gorge South)