Restricted Access

Abseil from the top of Brazen Butress. 

This crag is not in the MoD range. There are some bird nests in the Chimney area ( behind Brazen Buttress) but climbing is unrestricted at present as long as climbers minimise disturbance - i.e. don't hang around any longer than necessary where birds are flying in and out of the area.  Bird nesting can vary a lot here from year to year - please do a visual check before starting your route, particularly around 'The Cracks' to 'Star Gate' area.  A sign will be placed above Brazen Buttress if there is a seasonal restriction in place and this website will be updated.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 1 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

27m.

Rockfax Description
A route which bisects the traverse of Threadneedle Street. Climb the steep wall on the left-hand side of the through cave and pull up above into the wide crack sprouting from its top left corner which leads to the top. © Rockfax

FA. D.Viggers, P.Donnithorne 21/Apr/1992.

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Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Repeated
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Route of Interest
Magic Flute

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Penally West)

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