User | Date | Notes | ||
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John Cuthbert | 7 Dec, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: A little surprised at some of the comments here and our disagreement with them, or absence of comment. No dissent that the route is challenging and at times difficult to find the correct line. certainly too, we would agree that pitch 2 is a fine and slightly spooky meander ( we largely went up the back streak, then stepped right, then back left much more easily), though the 'committing' part (as described in the guidebook) never arrived. Pitch 3 however is very bold, tricky to decipher where the soundest rock lies, and justifies E1 5a in its own right. why also the guidebook thinks this is best done as a 50m pitch is hard to fathom. the drag is awful. The start of pitch 4 then arrives as a bit of a bouldery shock. The initial stiff pull after the small wires is greeted next by a moving hold which is not welcome given the potential impact on the ledge below. (ultimately that points to a bad outcome for someone!) what follows next is not straightforward either, and we felt borders 5c. Thereafter, anything remotely classic declines into a scrappy 100m romp to the top. Thank goodness for the well marked descent to the road. | ||
Show beta
βeta: A little surprised at some of the comments here and our disagreement with them, or absence of comment. No dissent that the route is challenging and at times difficult to find the correct line. certainly too, we would agree that pitch 2 is a fine and slightly spooky meander ( we largely went up the back streak, then stepped right, then back left much more easily), though the 'committing' part (as described in the guidebook) never arrived. Pitch 3 however is very bold, tricky to decipher where the soundest rock lies, and justifies E1 5a in its own right. why also the guidebook thinks this is best done as a 50m pitch is hard to fathom. the drag is awful. The start of pitch 4 then arrives as a bit of a bouldery shock. The initial stiff pull after the small wires is greeted next by a moving hold which is not welcome given the potential impact on the ledge below. (ultimately that points to a bad outcome for someone!) what follows next is not straightforward either, and we felt borders 5c. Thereafter, anything remotely classic declines into a scrappy 100m romp to the top. Thank goodness for the well marked descent to the road. |
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Grade: E1 5b ***
(Ksar Rock)