Restricted Access
The BMC has an agreement with the National Trust for fixed equipment in the dale. Put simply this is that like for like maintenance/replacement can take place as and when is needed but placement of new bolts would require agreement through the Peak Area meeting followed by approaching the National Trust for permission. There isn't a presumption of refusal by any means, but the National Trust understandably want to keep track of bolting activity in the Dale and in some cases they may need to apply for SSSI consent as landowner. The National Trust are extremely supportive of climbing in all it's forms in the Dale and it's important that we continue to cultivate our good relationship with them to ensure our needs as climbers are considered into the future.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
- Tissington Spires - please avoid all routes on South Gully Buttress (Zulu Dawn to Amoeba inclusive) during the restriction period.
- Ravens Tor - due to the nest location the whole crag is to be avoided for the restriction period.
Rockfax Description
Superb and sustained with good but hard-earned gear and a tricky crux. Climb to a flake and follow it strenuously to its end - place a wire before you get pumped! A short leap or long stretch gains a jug. Easier climbing leads to the belay. © Rockfax
FA. R Leeming S Read late 1950 FFA. Malc Taylor 1976.
Ticklists
Peak Rock/13/The Limestone Revolution , Chris Jackson’s 100 Classic Limestone Climbs
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Alan James - Rockfax | 25 Apr, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Superb and sustained with really hard earned but solid gear. Crux is desperate and reachy. A 70s E3 maybe but E4 nowaday in anyone's money. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Superb and sustained with really hard earned but solid gear. Crux is desperate and reachy. A 70s E3 maybe but E4 nowaday in anyone's money. |
||||
Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Dovedale
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Nectar
Grade: E4 6b ***
(Stanage North)