Restricted Access

The BMC has an agreement with the National Trust for fixed equipment in the dale. Put simply this is that like for like maintenance/replacement can take place as and when is needed but placement of new bolts would require agreement through the Peak Area meeting followed by approaching the National Trust for permission. There isn't a presumption of refusal by any means, but the National Trust understandably want to keep track of bolting activity in the Dale and in some cases they may need to apply for SSSI consent as landowner. The National Trust are extremely supportive of climbing in all it's forms in the Dale and it's important that we continue to cultivate our good relationship with them to ensure our needs as climbers are considered into the future. 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

-  Tissington Spires - please avoid all routes on South Gully Buttress (Zulu Dawn to Amoeba inclusive) during the restriction period.

-  Ravens Tor - due to the nest location the whole crag is to be avoided for the restriction period.

30m.

Rockfax Description
The bold, bulging rib between the crack systems is a stern test. The grade assumes that several pegs are in place. Climb the scoop and face, trending left to the overhang. Pull right over this to reach a crack, and follow this steeply to a stance in the bay above. Finish as for Southern Rib. © Rockfax

FA. John Codling, Dave Jones 1980. Originally done in two 2000.

Ticklists

Peak Rock/13/The Limestone Revolution

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High E6
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High 6b
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Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Jungleland

Grade: E5 6b ***
(Dovedale)

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