Restricted Access
The Beeston Tor caves at the right-hand side of the crag are an important archaeological site and the landowner (The National Trust) do not want any disturbance to the caves themselves. The Trust has requested that if climbers at the crag notice any suspicious activity around the caves (eg digging, metal detecting, carrying equipment or bags to/from the caves etc), that they call 01335 350503 and leave a message with any details.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
The restriction applies from Flying Doctor / The Thorn to Central Wall / Cleo's Mood inclusive (depending on which guidebook you are using).
Rockfax Description
A hard direct line that seeks out difficulties and exposure and finds plenty of both.
1) 4b, 28m. Pitch one of The Thorn gives a pleasant prelude.
2) 6a, 12m. The pocketed crack-line gives a hard way through the roof. Continue to a restricted stance a short distance above.
3) 6a, 18m. Step out right and climb past a ledge and then a peg to a narrow hanging slab. Follow this out right to a hard move then the expected grubby exit. © Rockfax
FA. Bob Dearman (aid) 1966 FFA. Phil Burke, Rab Carrington 1980.
Ticklists
Peak Rock/13/The Limestone Revolution
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Beeston Tor
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On Aggregate
Grade: E4 6c ***
(Ina’s Rock and Alton Cliff)