Restricted Access

The crag is owned and managed by Natural England and located in the Derbyshire Dales National Nature Reserve.

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

2024 - From 29th February onwards the restriction is in place for the whole crag due to nesting Peregrines (and Ravens). If possible the restriction will be reduced once the Peregrine's nest site can be confirmed. Please check back here for further updates.

46m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A good climb that starts just left of the toe of the buttress, below an evil-looking hanging flake.
1) 5a, 22m. Climb a groove, then move right past the wedged flake with care. Continue awkwardly up the thin crack until tricky moves right gain the belay.
2) 5b, 24m. Climb the crack above the stance to steeper rock, then pull through the bulges to join the wide crack that forms the final section of the upper pitch of Mealystopheles. Steep. © Rockfax

FA. Paul Nunn, Oliver Woolcock (1 pt of aid pitch 2) 1964.

Ticklists

Chris Jackson’s 100 Classic Limestone Climbs

Feedback

User Date Notes
Different Steve 17 Sep, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: The crux section has a sustained series of hard moves protected by awkward-to-place gear.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The crux section has a sustained series of hard moves protected by awkward-to-place gear.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 36
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 35
Votes cast 32
Style of Ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Left Unconquerable

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Stanage Plantation)

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