Rockfax Description
(The Normal Route) The route doesn't include much actual climbing, just a few short tricky pitches and quite a lot of wandering about on ledges, though it is worth the effort to top out on such a fine peak. A couple of the harder sections are awkward to arrange protection for the second man - care needed with beginners. .
1) Scramble easily up the ramp to a groove on the left.
2) N4+. Climb the groove awkwardly to ledges.
3) N4. An open groove leads to ledges, and an abseil anchor on the left.
4) N4+. Steeper rock and a slab lead to a belay at the base of a chimney.
5) N4+. Climb the chimney to an awkward traverse left (small spike runner to protect the second) to a belay on a long ledge. 6) N5-. Follow the ledge leftwards passing some rocky steps, one of which has a stubborn exit, to reach an abseil anchor.
7) Head left onto the ridge to where an easy scramble gains the summit. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
4+, 4, 5-, 4+, 5-. The original line of ascent weaves up the West Face - follow the trail!
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Grade: n5- ***
(Kuglhornet)