Due to late nesting sea-birds on the eastern arete area please avoid the routes "Fallout" to Gstelli" inclusive until the end of August . The birds are Fulmars and can be very aggressive and will vomit foul smelling puke over climbers close to the nest ...so it's in our best interest to avoid these routes until the birds have fledged! The routes affected are also pretty poor!
Dates: 1 May to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
In addition to the advice regarding nesting Fulmars above, The BMC has been informed by the NT that they wish to impose a seasonal restriction ".... due to the presence of ‘cavity-nesting’ Common Swifts* using the cracks in this face. As a minimum the routes ‘Reptiles and Samurai’, ‘Isis’, ‘Horus’, and ‘Rhea’ need to close until 1st August".
The BMC does not normally agree to seasonal restrictions for nesting Swifts but crag nesting Swifts are very scarce and the species has seen significant decline in populations in recent years. We have been infomed by the NT that they "want the routes listed below at Lewes Castle closed until 1st August. The decline in breeding population of Common Swifts is very worrying".
No climbing on the routes "Reptiles and Samurai" to "Rhea" inclusive fro May 1st until August 1st.
Rockfax Description
A massive pitch. Medium cams and large wires are useful. Begin at a small cave 3m right of Yellow Regeneration. Head up overhanging layback cracks (thread and peg) and past a capping bulge to reach a right trending handrail which gains a good rest. Climb leftwards (peg) to a niche and good holds. A slim groove on the right accesses another niche (thread). Make powerful moves over the bulge above (pegs) and continue up a thin left-facing groove to a horizontal break. Hand-traverse left and at a thin short crack, pull over a bulge (peg) to a good rising break. Rockover into a shallow niche, reach a good break and bear left to finish at a small left-facing groove. © Rockfax
M. Crocker 06/Oct/1991.
User | Date | Notes | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
Paddy Buchan | 1 Sep, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Cleaned up a bit, and replaced two out of three threads. Fantastic route! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Cleaned up a bit, and replaced two out of three threads. Fantastic route! |
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Grade: E6 6b ***
(Rhossili Beach)