Rockfax Description
A classic and popular route which allows an ascent to the summit of the Marmolada at an amenable grade. The rock quality is not as good as on other sections but the situation is grand and the summit rewarding. Despite the low grade, the route is very long, in an Alpine setting and can be subject to rockfall. It a serious undertaking and should not be taken lightly.
Start by the memorial plaque, just left of a rising ledge.
1) II, 35m. From the memorial plaque, traverse right over a series of ledges to reach the base of two parallel chimneys.
2) IV+, 25m. Climb the left chimney, overcoming a small roof formed by a chockstone and belaying above a second, larger chockstone.
3) IV, 40m. Continue in the chimney following a crack at the back, then on easier ground to reach a roof.
4) IV+, 30m. Pull through the roof on the left side, then continue in the chimney above, moving slightly right.
5) V, 30m. Continue in the same line to reach a chockstone. Move right 3m around this, then move back into the chimney above it to a stance.
6) IV+, 35m. Continue in the chimney to reach a ledge above.
7) II, 20m. Traverse easily left to the first ledge.
8) I, 15m. Traverse further left over a scree ramp to a stance below steeper ground.
9) IV, 15m. Follow a crack left, move back right then left again to a stance on a ledge.
11) IV+, 25m. Climb the slab above rightwards to a second slab.
12) III, 25m. Continue moving diagonally right up the slab, keeping right of the large roofs, to a stance 15m below a small pinnacle.
13) IV, 45m. Climb a short corner then move behind the little pinnacle. Either down climb to the right, or make a short abseil, to reach the base of a slanting corner. Alternatively, traverse in front of the pinnacle, passing a stance on a small ledge, then climb a crack direct to the base of the corner. Harder at IV+.
14) IV, 30m. Climb the corner, using cracks on the right side.
15) IV, 50m. Continue in the same line up the corner, then exit right to reach the second ledge.
16) I, 120m. Traverse the ledge easily right, passing below a large pillar and continue to two parallel chimney cracks.
17) IV, 20m. Climb the right-hand crack.
18) IV, 25m. Follow the crack system then exit right to a good stance.
19) III, 25m. Climb the stepped and somewhat loose rock above to a ramp which slopes left.
20) II, 20m. Follow the ramp left to a stance on a pillar below two gullies.
20-23) III, 120m. Climb loose but easy ground, following the left-hand gully. The right-hand gully is also climbable, being of equal grade and rock quality. Continue to reach the east ridge below the summit of Punta Penia.
24) II, 100m. Follow the exposed ridge to the summit.
Descent - The recommended descent avoids the glacier and descends via ferrata Marmolada West Ridge. From the top of the route, continue to reach the small cabin of Capanna Punta Penia. To return to Rifugio O.Falier, or Rifugio Contrin, follow the path towards the west ridge, and descend the wires of via ferrata Marmolada West Ridge to reach Forcella de la Marmolada. Descend a ladder then continue southwest over scree on path 606 to reach the fork with path 610. For Rifugio O.Falier, turn left here and ascend to Passo Ombretta before continuing more easily down to the rifugio. Alternatively, continue right on path 606-610 to Rifugio Contrin.
It is also possible to descend to Pian dei Fiacconi but this descent is not recommended as it involves a potentially dangerous glacier crossing and should not be attempted without the appropriate equipment. If you do want to use this route, follow the prominent ridge-line north until you reach a post and the path makes a sharp turn right. Join a wire cable heading down east to the glacier below descend initially on the right (east) side. You will soon see Rifugio Pian dei Fiacconi and the top of the Pian dei Fiacconi lift. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Classic Dolomite Climbs - Kohler/Memmel , Dolomites Trip

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