25m.
Rockfax Description
Climb the big flake of the original start to St. Paul then move up to a slim groove. Pull up and right to gain a small corner. Make some hard and fingery moves up the blank section above to easier ground. A key hold has gone and it hasn't been re-led. © Rockfax
FA. Jerry Moffatt 1982. One of the early 80s benchmark routes and probably still the hardest trad route on this side of WCJ..
Ticklists
Peak Rock/15/The Dawn of Sport:A Bolt From the Blue , Peak Lime new and re-equipped routes
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Ben Bransby | 28 Jul, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Re-led after the missing key hold. Never been on before so I'm not totally sure where or how much difference this hold made. Felt a bunch harder than 'En Masse Descendre' to the left which I also did today although it didn't feel like it would warrant E7, so maybe just upper E6. I backed up the good wires on the upper crux with some gear below and an RP up and right (pumpy to place) as I had visions of the good placement breaking off (unlikely but it looks like the flake which fell off was kinda attached close to the wire slot) | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Re-led after the missing key hold. Never been on before so I'm not totally sure where or how much difference this hold made. Felt a bunch harder than 'En Masse Descendre' to the left which I also did today although it didn't feel like it would warrant E7, so maybe just upper E6. I backed up the good wires on the upper crux with some gear below and an RP up and right (pumpy to place) as I had visions of the good placement breaking off (unlikely but it looks like the flake which fell off was kinda attached close to the wire slot) |
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Route of Interest
Camel Hot
Grade: E6 6b ***
(Black Rocks)