Restricted Access

The climbing on Stair Hole, Dungy Head and Durdle Door all fall within an area of land mapped as Open Access under CRoW. Climbing is a permitted activity under the CRoW legislation so there is a legal right of access to all three areas for climbers, walkers and members of the public.

A climbers code of conduct has been developed to help address concerns about conflict between climbers, members of the public and nesting birds - please follow the guidelines closely. Please take a discrete approach to climbing in the area which periodically attracts negative attention through tombstoning and the resulting injuries and rescues. Climbing and DWS are clearly different and permitted here, but can be caught up in media stories about tombstoning, so make an effort to keep a low profile so as not to encourage members of the public to have a go.

For safety reasons, there is no public access to the military ranges east of Lulworth Cove (which are used for live firing), other than on days when the ranges are open due to firing not taking place and even then only the marked path can be used. This means that no climbing can be accessed within the ranges at any time as it would necessitate walking off of the marked path.

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

Protected birds have been known to nest on crags in the area (in particular Dungy Head) in the past. Please observe any on site signage regarding restrictions if the birds do return.
10m.

Rockfax Description
6c, S0. A wild and dark traverse, starting as for Horny Lil' Devil, and then venturing through the arch to the beach in the cove. © Rockfax

FSA. Pete Oxley 23/May/1992.

Feedback

User Date Notes
psicobloc 22 May, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Where is the E4 or 6a moves? Felt much easier than the Maypole to me.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Where is the E4 or 6a moves? Felt much easier than the Maypole to me.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Lulworth

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Voting
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 1
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 1
Votes cast 1
Style of Ascent
Soloed
DWS
Lead
DNF
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Repeated
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Dune Dust

Grade: E4 6a ***
(Boulder Ruckle)

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