Rockfax Description
I, 380m. A fine route finding a neat solution to the central roof. Start just left of the waterfall.
1) 5a, 50m. Climb easily up right, then head left to a couple of bolts, then rightwards to belay.
2) 6b, 35m. Delicate slab climbing following the bolts above, then a crack, leads to a stance to the right of a smooth ramp. 2a) 5a, 40m. The hard pitch can be avoided by climbing the groove to the right, then making a short traverse left at the belay.
3) 6a+, 25m. Gain and follow the ramp. The first move is 6a+ if you can reach the hold. If you can't it's much harder - or jump!
4) 25m. Walk up the grass to find a belay on top of a block under the roof. Many start the route from here.
5) 6a, 25m. A steep pull enables you to step onto a narrow foot ledge. Traverse right and take the easy crack up left.
6) 6a+, 30m. Climb thin cracks and seams then left to a ledge.
7) 5c, 40m. Move up and right into the superb flake-crack. Finish up a slab.
8) 5b, 45m. A short slab leads to a crack then a slab which steepens just before the belay.
9) 5c, 20m. Step left to a crack and climb this and a short slab.
10) 5c, 50m. Climb the corner the swing out right and traverse the slab to gain a long crack. Step left at the top.
11) 5a, 35m. Move left and climb easily to the top. © Rockfax

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