Rockfax Description
The best route on the crag and a great adventure. Start at the perched block on the low ledge down and right of the hanging quartzy-ramp.
1) 5b, 25m. Climb the wall to gain a hand-traverse leftwards on to the sloping quartzy-ramp. Climb the corner above and surmount the capping overhang to gain a belay.
2) 5c, 12m. Climb the delicate pocketed arete above the belay.
3) 5b, 12m. Power up the steep crack above to reach the ledge. © Rockfax

Ticklists

George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist

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User Date Notes
Lankcroft 4 May, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: We cut out the remains of the lower piece of tat on P2 after it snapped under a cursory tug! We didn't have anything thin enough to replace it sadly (as the comment below says, 4mm is about the size you need, plus a coat hanger to shove it through the tiny hole). Personally I think this makes it a fair bit more bold as the ledge below is now in range of the fall.
Show beta
βeta: We cut out the remains of the lower piece of tat on P2 after it snapped under a cursory tug! We didn't have anything thin enough to replace it sadly (as the comment below says, 4mm is about the size you need, plus a coat hanger to shove it through the tiny hole). Personally I think this makes it a fair bit more bold as the ledge below is now in range of the fall.
Dave Rudkin 26 Apr, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: This route has been recently cleaned, and the useful thread on pitch two replaced. The lower thread couldn’t be replaced but was probably a bit optimistic any way been only 4mm cord, and it is far from crucial as there are good small wires just below.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: This route has been recently cleaned, and the useful thread on pitch two replaced. The lower thread couldn’t be replaced but was probably a bit optimistic any way been only 4mm cord, and it is far from crucial as there are good small wires just below.

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Guidebooks for Craig Yr Ogof (Cliff of the Cave)

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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 5
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 5
Votes cast 4
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Followed
Onsighted
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Aura

Grade: E2 5b ***
(Craig Yr Ysfa)

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