There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.
Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite.
Access restrictions under CRoW sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.
2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th
These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.
Dates: 1 May to 30 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.
Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page.
These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.
Rockfax Description
Climb into a recess with a block. Exit rightwards to a short wide crack zigging up the wall and a rounded finish left of the arete. © Rockfax
FA. Eric Byne early 1930s.
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , 100 Stanage stars , Stanage 100 VD - VS , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Peak district Road To Ruins Diff-VS , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , The Gritlist , Severe Stanage , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit TOP 500: S and VS , Stanage Routes - Epic Crackathon , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 HS , Stanage , Peaky , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Row & Tom's Stanage HS Challenge , Stanage HS Challenge
User | Date | Notes | ||
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milanboez | 20 Jun, 2023 |
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βeta: Harder (and better) than Martello Buttress I think. Class. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Harder (and better) than Martello Buttress I think. Class. |
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VS4b | 6 Jun, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Fantastic route, the move up to the vertical crack is well protected and not as hard as it first looks but made me think. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Fantastic route, the move up to the vertical crack is well protected and not as hard as it first looks but made me think. |
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mat_galvin | 17 Apr, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Superb route. Good cams in the break and then commit to the jam. Not ashamed to say that this one got a "woop" of exhilaration out of me after the crux. Top is typical gritstone slopers! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Superb route. Good cams in the break and then commit to the jam. Not ashamed to say that this one got a "woop" of exhilaration out of me after the crux. Top is typical gritstone slopers! |
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Monk | 9 Jun, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: It's very rounded at the top. The moves aren't that hard though. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: It's very rounded at the top. The moves aren't that hard though. |
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Grade: HS 4b ***
(Kinder Southern Edges)