There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.
Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite.
Access restrictions under CRoW sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.
2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th
These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.
Dates: 1 May to 30 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.
Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page.
These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.
Rockfax Description
Pass perched flakes with care, to below the overhang. Move right and finish up the juggy face a little further to the right. © Rockfax
FA. Fred Piggott et al. early 1920s.
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Stanage 100 VD - VS , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Chatsworth to Bamford , Peak district Road To Ruins Diff-VS , Beginner Peak Severe , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit TOP 500: S and VS , Stanage Severe Challenge , Level 1 Peak Trad Routes , Stanage green spot starters , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 S , Stanage Severes (UKC) , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Martin’s 1980’s Ticklist , Stanage Green Spot Challenge
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Christopher Owen | 13 May, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: Good range of styles on this one, felt very exposed on the traverse and up the final wall. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Good range of styles on this one, felt very exposed on the traverse and up the final wall. |
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MattOwen | 25 Apr, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Technical crux at the start. Pyschological crux making the move around the corner. Once traversing didn't want to waste time putting in gear - move right and to the top. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Technical crux at the start. Pyschological crux making the move around the corner. Once traversing didn't want to waste time putting in gear - move right and to the top. |
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Si dH | 13 Nov, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: The technical crux is getting off the ground. But yes, the traverse is quite exposed. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: The technical crux is getting off the ground. But yes, the traverse is quite exposed. |
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nigel pearson | 13 Oct, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: I agree, quite a scary traverse and finish. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: I agree, quite a scary traverse and finish. |
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Grade: S 4a ***
(Stanage Popular)