Author John Holden & Peter Stirling
Published FRCC (0000)
ISBN 978-1-8380054-0-5

Website frcc.co.uk

Review

Dow and Coppermines by John Holden and Peter Stirling published by FRCC Guides 2023.

This charming guidebook bucks the trend in that it is ‘pocket sized’. At 18cm tall and 12cm wide it is the same dimensions as the Langdale guidebook but is much slimmer and therefore feels smaller. It will easily fit in a jacket pocket or the pocket of your climbing breeches!
The cover sports a superb photo by David Simmonite and there are many more excellent and inspirational pictures inside.

The book is beautifully laid out, with clear useful maps, QR codes, inspirational photos and many clear photo topos. The route descriptions are clear with all the usual details including first ascent details. In short the high standard we have come to expect from FRCC Guides and clearly a labour of love by the authors.

Dow crag is covered including the new harder routes but also Goat Crag is given proper treatment for the first time as are other worthwhile venues in the valley below Goats Water and above The Walna Scar Road, Some of these would provide good days out for beginners or excellent places to introduce children to climbing in a peaceful mountain setting.

The other main area is The Coppermines valley, strewn with the relics of it’s mining past, it is an interesting area in it’s own right. The guidebook provides a brief history of the mining and a Coppermines Tour, which outlines an interesting day, both above and below ground. These sections add value to the guidebook and will prove useful on rest days or poor weather days when an alternative to climbing is sought.

The Coppermines section of the book opens with a superb photo by Keith Sanders of Astrid Saxby climbing Drought on Grey Crag. Although the guidebook states that this is selective coverage there are plenty of crags and routes of all grades except maybe the hardest. The best climbing here is in the VD to E1 range, with a few good scrambles mentioned. The climbing in Coppermines is mostly on good rough rock in a quiet setting and several good days can be had here exploring the different crags. This area is covered well, gently guiding the reader to the best crags and routes, while not ignoring some of the more esoteric and therefore more peaceful offerings. There are plenty of beautiful maps and careful reading of this section provides ideas for good days out in almost any weather and at most times of the year. For those wanting to spend more time in the valley as well as the Youth Hostel and the YMC hut there is the charming Coppermines Cottage run by The Barrow Mountaineering and Ski Club.

Altogether an excellent and charming guidebook, that is destined to become a favourite with me. Criticisms? Hard to fault really but I think that the authors could have preserved the historical three pitches of Murray’s Direct instead of shortening it to two pitches and Southern Slabs has only the direct variation described and in one long pitch, whereas in my opinion it is much better enjoyed as the traditional two pitches, with the long thought provoking traverse being the real meat of the route. There may be others, guidebook writers seem to like to reduce routes to as few pitches as possible these days. Giving the impression that we are all in a hurry to ‘get-it-done’ and move on to the next route, instead of savouring the experience. This is just nit picking really and none of it should put anyone off buying this superb and valuable new guidebook.

If any local expert is wondering why Yewdale has not been mentioned, it is provided as a 26 page e-book, available to download for free from the FRCC website. A welcome and modern solution that makes the Dow guide lighter and more portable.