UKC

Hello, we are coming over from France for the month of August with our campervan. We are wanting to have a nice tour of the best sport climbing destinations of the UK, starting from the south and making our way up to Scotland. My wife climbs in the 6a to 6c range, and I climb in the 7a to 7c range. In general, we would be very grateful for any information about DO's and DONT's in the UK, but we are very interested in suggestions for a climbing itinerary. While we are not big boulders or trad climbers, we would be interested in visiting the classic areas, too. Sorry that this is such a broad question/request. 

Thank you in advance for any help you might be able to provide. 

Kind Regards,

Brett and Emily 

Personally, I'd just go to Spain.  Nicer weather and considerably better sport climbing.

However if you have to come here, then be warned, sport isn't really what the UK is good for.  Trad and bouldering are very good.  So if it was me, that's what I'd lean into.  So much to go at.  Peak and Northumbria for bouldering and trad.  Pembroke and Cornwall for trad. 

However, if you have to, then here's a few suggestions.  The Gower has quite a few sport crags and most are ok.  It's a nice place with good beaches and well worth a few days.  On the way, visit Dinas Rock which is good for your grade range.

Up in Yorkshire, there's the two 'big' crags, Malham Cove and Raven Tor (Miller's Dale) both of which have a large selection of hard routes to go at.

Also, down south, there's Portland, which has a wide range of routes for all grades and is near the seaside.

Lots of crags have various restictions, so please check the Regional Access Database before heading to a crag.  https://www.thebmc.co.uk/modules/RAD/

Depends a little where you're sailing into! 

The UK does have some mega sport venues in very atmospheric places. Just to give you some ideas, assuming you're coming in at Calais you could head over to Swanage Fisherman's Ledge, The Promenade and Portland  The Cuttings, Neddyfields, Lighthouse Area

If you wanted to head down into the deep dark South West you could check out  Anstey's Cove in Devon, and  Cheesewring Quarry in Cornwall, but if not...

you could head over to the Wye Valley  Wintour's Leap,  Ban-y-gor, and carry on down into South Wales to the Gower Rhossili Beach Trial Wall Area

From here you could travel up to North Wales and get into the awesome Llanberis slate Quarries  Australia  Bus Stop Quarry  Rainbow Slab Area. On your way out at North Wales you could stop off for some Clwyd Limestone at  Trevor Quarry and the other crags around

Then you've got the peak sport of  Stoney West and  Horseshoe Quarry, and further north are the Yorkshire sport gems of  Malham Cove Giggleswick South and  Trow Gill. Further north than that I've then not got much idea, but I'm sure someone else will give you some Scotland inspiration!
 

Again just some ideas to get you started! Most of the crags linked will have a load of others in the surrounding area so it's worth having a look around and getting a feel for it, hope you can get some inspiration from this!

If the OP is contemplating leaving France to visit Horseshoe Quarry* then they are…. aesthetically challenged is the polite way to phrase it. There are very few crags in the U.K. to really rival the wealth of fantastic sports cliffs in France. Matt’s advice above is spot on, ignore the dislikes, come for our excellent bouldering and trad. There is so much really good and easy trad here, learning it is pretty simple (you’ve got a month) and it’s something that France doesn’t have so much of. 

* or indeed Portland, The Cuttings or the Wye Valley.

It's barely worth the drive from Congleton to Horseshoe 🤣 

OP drop me a DM if you want some campervan spots recommending (August is a bit of a bad time for 'wild camping' unfortunately.)

Raven Tor isnt in Yorkshire and both it and Malham are usually too hot in Summer. Kilnsey and Gordale are the obvious big sport crags to consider in a Yorkshire Dales summer but they dont offer anything good and bolted below 6b+ / 6c.

Due to our traditional history, sport climbing in the UK is very limited. The best is at the higher grades and often overused. Lower grade stuff is, to be frank, crap compared with offerings on the continent.

If you can’t be persuaded to explore UK trad climbing then perhaps it would perhaps be better to reframe your question into… Where are some nice places in the UK to visit that happen to have some sport climbing?

North Wales, The Peak District, The Yorkshire Dales, The Lake District, Scotland’s West coast, The far Northwest of Scotland all have some sport climbing, some of which isn’t terribly.

Thank you to everyone so far with the suggestions. We are interested in visiting the UK as much for the general adventure of it and for being exposed to a new culture. Climbing is always just a good excuse to travel and see the world and meet new people. Cheers, Brett and Emily

Thank you, Tom. When I have a bit of an itinerary sorted out, I will DM you. 

Don't worry, we have some decent sport climbing in the UK, contrary to what some might say!

Yeah do feel free mate, happy to offer some advice.

In the 7a-7c range your best bet is the Peak District, Yorkshire and North Wales limestone.

In the Peak District there's lots of great crags in Cheedale. Two Tier, The Cornice and Moat Buttress offer some great, varied routes.

In Yorkshire Kilnsey and Goredale offer plenty in the 7a-7c range and are shady in summer.

North Wales has Lower Pen Trywn. Although tidal, the rock is brilliant and again lots to go at in the grades you want.

Andy F

Chee Dale Upper

Chee Dale Lower

Water-cum-Jolly

Kilnsey

[ Lower Pen Trwyn

I know it's not really on the way to anywhere but for something unique St Bees may be worth a mention for the lower of your grade ranges, and obviously has amazing bouldering. 

I think these are the best bits of general advice you could follow:

I suspect if you come here hoping for places that are picturesque and have really good sport climbing (with routes to suit both you and your wife at the same crag) then you'll probably go away disappointed after being in France. You also only have a month and the weather will probably be very changeable. So you might have to just go roughly wherever the weather's best at the time and then see what options are in that area rather than planning an itinerary.

Yeah there is loads - like you I really don't understand the answers on this thread that boil down to "do trad instead or don't bother". Plenty of great sport linked to here, although I'd focus on North Wales and Yorkshire rather than some places in South Wales/the Peak.

I don’t think anyone is saying this! Merely that it might be a bit underwhelming after what France has to offer. One doesn’t get many month long holidays in life, it’s a fair way to come so might as well make it worthwhile and discover what is outstanding and unique about a place, rather than experiencing a second order version of the thing you have at home. 

Most of my sport climbing here has been done on the south of England, I would say that whilst the rock is often a little disappointing the moves are often very good, technical and interesting. I wouldn’t choose it over Ceuse for my holidays though.

The traditional routes at Ceuse are far better than most UK sport routes

As others have said, don't go to Spain (too hot) and don't go to horseshoe (too rubbish). In fact, I'm not sure I'd recommend the peak for sport climbing to a foreigner. Maybe a day or two in Cheedale as it's a lovely place, even if the climbing is pretty fierce with few quality routes below 7a. 

As others have said, Malham, Gordale and Kilnsey are world class, comparable in quality to the climbing in Spain and France in my opinion. Gordale and Kilnsey should be fine all day temperature wise in August provided they're not seeping. The left hand side of Malham comes into the shade around 2pm I think. There are some routes of quality below 7bish at all three (e.g. directisma at Kilnsey at 6c), but not a great deal. 

Taking a step down in quality (but still well worth the trip) you've got the Ormes in north Wales - lower Pen Trwyn and the diamond are both excellent. The former does have some decent stuff below 7a. The latter, not so much.

Chapel head scar, near the Lake District is brilliant. Although the grades are stiff!

The Gower in south Wales is stunning. The best sport climbing is around shipwreck cove (good spread of grades from 6a). Minchen hole, Foxhole, Zulu and Debra's zawn are also worth of visit. All of these locations are tidal however, except Foxhole.

Antsey's cove in Devon is excellent as is the nearby Torbryan quarry. The grades at the latter are easier and the quality starts at 6c.

In Scotland, I'd recommend tunnel walls and Dunkeld but 7b/+ is really the entry grade here. 

I've never been but Inishmore, off the west coast of Ireland, looks superb. 

Dropping the quality again, you've got Portland, the South Wales quarries, Dinas rock, Gilwern, Cheddar, Wye valley and various quarries in the Peak district and Yorkshire. Personally I wouldn't bother if I were you. 

You have to be taking the piss, really. You've got to be on drugs to suggest they are mega compared to what there is in France. Delusional.

Mattrm said it how it is, apart from the Spain bit fir summer. I can't believe he got so many dislikes.

OP. Your trip sounds a bit like a gourmet coming to UK on a wine tasting trip.  Sure you'll find some ok stuff if you hunt for it, but nothing to compare with what you have at home. And in the meantime you'd be missing out on the genuinely good stuff that you don't specialise in at home like ale and whisky.

Well, yeah, compared to some of the French sport areas, some of the crags I mentioned might not stand up to comparison, that’s a given really

that being said I’ve personally climbed in some mega cool sport venues in the UK, The Gower and North Welsh quarries being a couple, some stuff on Portland is also good for a clear summers day followed by a jump in to cool off. yeah if they are going out expecting the Verdon slapped in the middle of the Cotswolds they may be a little let down, but despite what the trad dads may say we still do have plenty of good sport climbing to get on!

(And yes we do also have some ace trad climbing if they wanted to learn and get themselves a rack)

It's the re-framing of the OPs reasonable question into 'where's the best sport climbing area in Europe', topped off with go to Spain when it's far too hot to go to Spain.

This can be an interesting island to visit for people from mainland Europe. It's perfectly reasonable that someone might want to come and have a look round and do some climbing, while sticking to what they know. Do the best routes at the better venues and you'll do some good climbing, it will take you to some interesting places and you'll see a lot of this funny island off the northwest coast!

I think this is great attitude and you'll almost certainly have fun with that attitude (fingers crossed for decent weather!). I live on the edge of the Peak District and only climb to about 6b, so I understand why folks are pouring scorn on the idea of visitors from overseas going to Horseshoe Quarry. It's really not that special, I go there because it's 15 minutes from home not because it's amazing. But that's not the full story: you could do a couple of climbs in Horseshoe in the morning then walk through the fields above it into the beautiful village of Eyam - nice cafés in historic buildings and a little museum about Eyam's sad history of being the most northerly place where the Plague broke out (late 1600s, nothing to worry about now!). 

Likewise, you're 15 minutes drive from Stanage Edge and Burbage Edge. Even if you don't want to trad climb (although there are loads of decent, easy and easy to protect climbs that trad newbies can do), they are lovely places to go for walks, you can go and look at the super hard grit routes you've probably seen on YouTube etc. and there are old proper English pubs you can visit for food or nice beer. Cheedale, in the Peak, is really close as well, and that's beautiful. There is very little below 7a on the main cliffs, but just walking through the gorge next to the river is lovely. Another nice old pub near the parking too. 

Over in North Wales the Llanberis slate quarries are amazing places just from an industrial archaeology point of view, let alone the tonnes of climbing routes. I've climbed in a good few different countries around Europe and the world now, and Welsh slate stands out as a really interesting rock type - again do some routes in the morning, visit the slate mining museum in the afternoon, hike up Yr Wyddfa/Snowdon the next day, learn some Welsh words and book on a sea kayaking course the day after. Again sounds perfect for visitors.

There's lots of sport climbing in the Yorkshire Dales - I've done less up there but again, I do know it's also a super scenic part of the country, rich in history and just bloody gorgeous. Walking, cycling, horse riding possibilities and of course again more ancient pubs for refreshment! 😀

And I haven't even got on to Scotland - the north west of the Scottish Highlands is among the most beautiful places I've been anywhere. There are some recently developed sport crags now dotted around the NW, so again - if you got to enjoy the mountains and beaches and do a few routes when passing those crags - you should have a wonderful time. 

So it really depends on what you want to do. As others have said, there is a range of sport climbing options in the UK, but realistically the quality isn't as good as what you will find in France. If you are coming to the UK for a general explore, and want to get a quick couple of days climbing in, then the sport climbing suggestions that have been made are all fine.

On the other hand, if you want to experience the UK's climbing and outdoor culture, then realistically you need to be prepared to embrace trad climbing. Beg borrow or steal some gear to make up a trad rack: 2 sets of wires and half a dozen cams, and some slings. Go and visit some of the main UK climbing areas - they have reputations for a reason.

A few suggestions (I've assumed that for trad you might want to drop your grade hard - I'm suggesting routes that would be hugely within your capabilities, but will give you the flavour of UK climbing)- lots of good easier or harder options are available . I've arranged some suggestions as a circular(ish) trip, with gradually increasing grades - so starting easy and pushing it as you gain confidence on trad. No doubt there will be other people with different opinions on the best routes and experiences - but then arguing the merits of routes in a climbers pub after a day on the hill is part of the fun!
 

• Cornwall: Trust me, there are few better feelings than sitting outside a pub (like the Gurnard's Head) overlooking the Atlantic, with a good pint in your hand, after climbing on the Cornish sea cliffs.   At  Bosigran Doorpost (HS 4b) may only be HS, but you will never forget it. Little Brown Jug (VS 5a) is brilliant too. At  Chair Ladder South Face Direct (VS 4c) is the full tidal sea cliff experience.
• Peak District: Gritstone is a climbing world of it's own. Little gems in an exquisite setting. There are a huge number of great routes. Maybe Valkyrie (VS 4c) and The Sloth (HVS 5a) at the Roaches, The Right Unconquerable (HVS 5a) and Flying Buttress Direct (E1 5b) at Stanage (multiple areas on UKC so no link) .
• Lake District: Cute mountains and jewelled lakes, stone pubs and rich beer. Some of my favourites: Praying Mantis (E1 5b) at  Goat Crag, Borrowdale andGolden Slipper (HVS 5a) at  Pavey Ark.
• Scotland. Where to begin! You could spend weeks here if the weather is good (and run away if it is bad!). Take insect repellent. Maybe Spartan Slab (VS 4c) on the  Beinn Trilleachan (Etive Slabs), The Big Top (E1 5a) on  Aonach Dubh, then go to Skye and climb Cioch Grooves (HVS 5a) / Arrow Route (VD) / Trophy Crack (E1 5b) on  Sron na Ciche. The Clachaig Inn in Glencoe, and the Sligachan Inn on Skye are classic climbers pubs!
• North Wales. Visit both the Llanberis Pass and Gogarth to get the mountains and the sea. Cenotaph Corner (E1 5c) and Left Wall (E2 5c) on  Dinas Cromlech are justifiably famous. Then go and climb A Dream of White Horses (HVS 4c) at  Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff - yes, it is that good! And do visit the slate quarries (sport) - the climbing is different to anything you will have ever experienced. Afraid I can't make solid recommendations as I haven't done much, and what I have done has suffered rockfall. Maybe something like Pull My Daisy (E2 5c) on  Rainbow Slab Area if Poetry Pink (E5 6b) is too bold!
• Pembroke. Back to the sea. Finish off your day with a Cream Tea at the Cafe in Bosherston. So many classics in a small area. Pushing the grade here a little How about Mysteries (E3 5c) at Stennis Ford , Ghost Ship (E3 5c) at Bosherston Head and Pleasure Dome (E3 5c) at  Stennis Head

Whatever you chose to do, there are some wonderful places to go and experiences to be had. Hope you have a great trip!

I think you're Defo right about the slate quarries. They are something amazing, and probably different to your average french sport.

PS, OP. I could lend you a rack for Peak district trad if you want...

I don't know princess, the sport climbing here isn't half bad its just different. The climbing is good depending if your open to sometimes a green and grassy lines. But none the less what sets us different from the rest of the world is the ethics and culture of climbing in the UK. This forum has a been a pretty good example of the backwards and sometimes moronic attitude that trad dads have. Its pretty stupid to say "just go to Spain" or "just go trad climbing" when someone is coming over to climb and experience a culture that is separate from their own. Sometimes people don't like trad climbing, and that's ok. 

Also our wine is pretty good I drink it, it serves a purpose when all the whisky and ale has been drank by old men that think this next generations of climbers are 'snowflakes'. 

OP I hope you enjoy your trip, and if anyone starts giving you grief about just going over for sport climbing they usually leave their gear at the bottom so help yourself. Maybe they dont deserve to be part of a community that is supportive instead of saying their peers are "on drugs". 

Hi Brett,

Sounds like a great trip you have planned and others have spoken about the merits or otherwise of UK Sport climbing though I'm pretty sure you had already worked that out. I won't try to convert you to trad for all it's merits. When you get to Scotland just be flexible and go with the weather. We have some lovely venues with a great variety of grades around Gairloch for when the NW has the weather (Goat Crag, The Flowerdale Bastion, Creag nan Cadhag, even Loch Maree Supercrag or Creag nan Luch (if the midges stay away). Moy and the Loch Fleet crags offer rain shadow opportunities in the far NE. The Strathnairn Crags can also offer great sport just a few miles from Inverness. The North East around Aberdeen has some venues that can even provide a bit of fun by the sea. Have a great trip and bring some decent weather, please. ps, if you get to the Aberdeen area get in touch for a wee show round if you want.

Ha! We live about an hour from Ceuse : ), near Briancon.

We are looking to experience the great history of British climbing. While it will be different than what we are used to, that is exactly why we want to come and explore your country, climbing and culture!

Thank you to everyone for all of the amazing help!

Thanks Toby, that was delight to read.

Are you ok son? You seem a bit techy. 

Objectively speaking, the sport climbing in the UK at the grade that half the OP's party operates is plainly and clearly not that good compared to what they can experience at home.

Sorry, what does that ever mean...

Slowly reread what you have written there. It's a contradiction.

" what sets us different is the ethics and culture of climbing in the UK"

" Its pretty stupid to say  "just go trad climbing" when someone is coming over to climb and experience a culture that is separate from their own. "

Various posters know that the UK climbing ethics and culture are what sets us different. Hence they are suggesting the OP experience the ' best' of that culture that gives them something different from what they get at home.

Splendid.

 It may well be pretty good. However it is generally not a patch on the amazing breadth, variety and quality of what is available in France. Which is exactly my point.

Where did this even come from.... Has someone at school been picking on you?

Agreed.

This isn't about age or a stupid trad vs sport battle. I love sport climbing, and I've done lots of trips to places like Ceuse, Verdon, Buoux, Siurana, Smith Rock, Red Rocks, even Owen's River Gorge. Of course this is totally normal, but like a lot of climbers on here it's given me a decent perspective on what makes a good sports cliff, at least in the grades in which I climb. Are our bolted cliffs worth climbing on? Emphatically yes. Are they worth travelling to from the south of France? Hmmmm that's a tougher call for many of them, including ones which I really enjoy.

I think there are two different mentalities at work on this thread: "Is it any good?" vs "Is it as good as the other things I could be doing with my time/money?" Choosing A over B does not of course imply that B is terrible!

I don't think anyone here is giving the OP "grief"; being supportive also means politely suggesting when an idea might not be the best. Suggesting climbers steal other climbers' gear for the crime of having the wrong opinion doesn't seem that supportive to me.

In that case then this is your best guide so far on this thread: https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/destinations/summer_sport_climbing_in_the...

I'd go to Isle of Portland which is on the South Coast. I'd then hop around the South West, hitting the various sport crags and possibly even doing some easy trad. My family are from Yorkshire but I think the South West (Devon, Cornwall, Somerset and Dorset) is a lovely part of the UK to visit.

Wow! This is really a thoughtful response and incredibly helpful! We will have a trad rack with us and a bouldering pad, so that we can explore these aspects, too. Thank you.

Thank you for the kind offer. Everyone has been wonderfully helpful. Thank you all. We are really looking forward to exploring and taking in all that the UK has to offer on every level. 

I was surprised no-one else had recommended Scottish sport - most of it is quite a lot more scenic than peak quarries 🤣.  

For example quality conglomerate at Moy rock and Golspie, with drier weather and fewer midges even in August.

Or there are sport outcrops up and down the West Coast - set amongst scenery to die for - for example Gallanach, Dallens Rock, Princes Stone (Arisaig) and the Gairloch outcrops.

Yes, we are very interested in spending some time in Scotland. Thank you for the suggestions

I wholly agree with that, with the caveat that I wouldn´t point someone new both to Gritstone and to placing their own gear at Flying Buttress Direct (E1 5b); the consequences of a fall from the lip could be horrendous, should the gear rip.

Jokes on them, I've got the moronic like/dislike thing turned off.  UKCs worst 'feature' by a country mile.

I'll hoof a more detailed post up about the Gower later on, as I think for the OP it ticks a lot of boxes, even if just for Rhossili.

I left it off as I know diddly squat about Scottish sport climbing and the best time to go to Spain apparently.  Which isn't surprising given I don't fly anywhere on holiday any more.

I may be slightly biased but there is lots of great sport climbing on Yorkshire Limestone. There are the obvious big names - Malham, Goredale, Kilnsey. Plus Giggleswick North  Giggleswick North & South Giggleswick South, lots of new bolting at Attermire  Attermire Scar (very scenic location) and Trollers Gill Troller's Gill.

The Yorkshire Dales is a lovely part of the UK with some great pubs, nice places to eat and the recently awarded best cheese shop in UK. Might be controversial but I'd say the scenery is up there with the likes of the Lake District

I think at that time of year you could do some very enjoyable climbing in a number of places around the UK.

The Isle of Portland as others have mentioned has some of the best sport climbing in the UK at the grades you're talking. Must visit crags: Wallsend South  Wallsend North  Coastguard North  Coastguard South all great for 3* 6s and 7s. Walking the King (6b+) is one of the best climbs I've done anywhere in Europe in the 6s. Atmospheric area too, right down by the sea and tidal (so check the tide tables and times), you'll have to scramble down a steep slope with a chain/fixed ropes and to get to some of the areas you have to wade through a tidal trench which is fun. At that time of year will be best without the sun on it. Someone mentioned The Cuttings - I love it there but it's a bit of an acquired taste and not sure a visitor from France would think much of it. 

Anstey's Cove in Devon is great 7a-7c but in my opinion the climbs in the 6s are really hard there.

In the Peak District I wouldn't visit Horseshoe Quarry on a trip from France but  Chee Dale Lower is great although again best in 7s and 8s, same story for Raven Tor. 

Haven't climbed sport much anywhere else in the country, though Malham Cove is worth a visit whether you climb there or not. 

Have a great trip! 

In that case you should climb some natural gritsone in the peak district (all trad). Stanage is a classic venue, with lots of well protected routes. The moves take advantage of the friction so cooler conditions are better. A summer morning or evening with a breeze to keep midges away could be very pleasant.

Quarried grit has a different character, and Millstone, near Stanage is a good example. It has some great crack climbs that are obviously well protected.

Hathersage is a nice village near both with a campsite, pubs, fish and chips ect. It also has an outside swimming pool!

You say you are planning a tour of the best sport climbing destinations of the UK, then the A55 crags in North Wales should definitely be on your list. They tick a lot of your boxes with most routes being within the grades you are looking for. Also they are very accessible with much quality and varied climbing. A55 Sport Climbs 3th edition lists 437 routes and 18 crags. 

Another vote for Gower. There are few places in the world where you can go climbing straight from the beach, and Gower is one of them.

Google Shipwreck Cove in Rhossili for more info - all sport climbing.

Please don’t confuse our French friends with impenetrable British humour. 

Hi.  You probably know...but the midges in Scotland are at their worst during August. You could get lucky and have sunny windy environments, that keep them minimal. But when they are bad, they are really bad. Especially living in the outdoors in a campervan.

We've been going to your homeland (from Scotland) for the last 10 years or so during those months specifically to avoid those things! However, everybody has a different tolerance. I'm hopeless with them.

You will know the moment you meet them whether you can tolerate them or not. If not, save Scotland for April May some year.

Have fun!

Giggleswick, Attermire quality climbing? Next you will be extolling the virtues of Bram Cag and Wythop.

Let's have a touch of realism here, put yourself in the ops shoes. Imagine you had travelled to southern France and found yourself at Gigg, you would feel your journey had been wasted.

There’s good advice here ^^ North Wales has a lot of good sport climbing eg The Diamond but not always in both the 6s and 7s for the two of you. The Llanberis slate quarries are rather unique (and UNESCO listed) with a broad grade range but the bolts can be very spaced- get info on what’s safe.

eg https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/bus_stop_quarry-5/#maps

Hope you have lots of fun.

I didn't include the Diamond because of the bird ban. 

There's also Chapel Head Scar (if the bird ban finishes early, often does). Brilliant crag, with the Lake District very close for history, walks, scenery etc.

Andy F 

Chapel Head Scar

Fair point, the ban ends mid August so timings might not work for them, plus it’s poor in the 6s. Unique place though. 

OP: You should check the BMC Regional Access Database for access information at venues you’re considering.

details here https://www.thebmc.co.uk/modules/rad/view.aspx?id=234 

If you’re not aware, might be smart to educate yourself about ticks in the British countryside too. https://www.lymediseaseaction.org.uk/

I think you will be able to have a great holiday sport climbing in the UK. We certainly have enough good sport routes for a holiday!

Many UK sport venues suffer from not having a wide grade range at the same crag. I've friends who are a married couple and they often climb at a crag with good 6s during part of the day and and at a different nearby crag for good 7s and 8s . I think in the Peak District, their favourite venue for 6s is https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/harpur_hill_quarry-956/ . For 7s, the Peak has a wealth of great crags eg https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/water-cum-jolly-140/ and https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/chee_dale_lower-10866/

Portland and Swanage are perhaps the best place for decent 6 and 7 grade routes side-by-side. Often the best routes there are at the tidal crags, which adds a nice sea-side ambiance. eg https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/coastguard_south-270/ and https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/the_promenade-252/

I'm less familiar with Wales and Yorkshire so I'll leave recommendations for there to the others (they are good though).