UKC

Ali Kennedy climbing The Big Issue (E9 6c), Bosherston Head, Pembroke, without pre-placed gear or peg. The first few pieces were placed before climbing back down to the ground. Date of ascent: 21st May 2017.

Watch the video: http://www.ukclimbing.com/videos/play.php?i=3763

In reply to UKC Videos:

Brilliant, really enjoyed that, well done!

In reply to UKC Videos:

Impressive stuff and nice vid to watch!

In reply to UKC Videos:

I love the sound track.

In reply to UKC Videos:
Just to add to something to the story here, Ramon (Marin) and I bumped into Ali later that day. For those that haven't met Ali, he's an unassuming sort of guy, being both grounded and down to earth, but what happened next reveals a kind of pathological modesty that I am still in awe of.

At the time we were heading over towards Bosherton Head to climb Punks in the Tea Room (E5 6b), which is located just beside The Big Issue. Ali had just finished shunting Do You Know Where Your Children Are? (E8 6c) in Huntsman's Leap, which was impressive enough, as we knew he was on something of a roll lately, with multiple E8/9 ascents. The usual pleasantries were exchanged and he asked us where we were going, we responded, and his return offering was "oh right, nice - it should be in good condition over there, have fun". Thanks Ali, thanks - what a guy...

It was several days later when we heard that he'd actually done The Big Issue an hour or so earlier. I was dumbstruck and had to message him, "Ali, why didn't you tell us?!?!?". His response was "Didn't want to be 'one of those people' that lets you know before you've even asked! How was the E5?". There was no way this guy, this frustratingly inspirational and unassuming guy, was going to turn this back around on us. I reckon if there's ever one time in your life you could justifiably toot your own horn it's when you've done The Big Issue. Hell, I'd be shouting 'I'VE CLIMBED THE BIIIIIGG ISSSUEEEEEE' from the highest rooftops, or the St. Govans Inn, whichever was closest.

Anyway, Ali - you are my hero.

Never change.

In reply to UKC Videos:

That's a very fine bit of climbing
He looks so relaxed!

In reply to UKC Videos:

Awesome

In reply to UKC Videos:

Very impressive and totally casual. Minor gripe, but I'd really liked to have seen a slightly wider shot, from the same perspective, of the top section. Maybe it wasn't possible for some reason, but the climb itself does look amazing.

In reply to UKC Videos:

That was great. Good stuff.

In reply to UKC Videos:
Great video - you're an inspiration Ali!

In reply to UKC Videos:

Well..that all looked very cool and rather impressive.

In reply to jon:

Cheers, it was that big run-out near the top I was hoping to see in the vid from further away, it must be quite intimidating.

In reply to UKC Videos:

Nice to see Ali climbing this and making it look so effortless! Congrats again Ali!catch you at the crag sometime...

In reply to UKC Videos:
How good is the gear on this? He seems to spend a lot of time placing it so I'm guessing it's at least ok? Just curious if it's a proper hard route (good gear) or a hard and scary thing, mostly asking because I'm aware it was originally bolted.

Looks like a fine effort regardless of how good the gear is!

In reply to spenser:

The gear is excellent quality but it's a big fall from the hard climbing. The route is physically hard - 8a+ or thereabouts

In reply to midgets of the world unite:

Looks like the hard climbing is much more sustained than on other Pembroke hard routes (from the comfort of my arm chair) . Great to watch.

In reply to UKC Videos:

Wow. Even in my dreams I don't climb that smoothly and precisely. The way he fiddles in the gear whilst holding onto an overhanging wall with what looks like a poor upward hold (second gear nest) is amazing.

great video, so smooth -

the original JD video of a repeat ascent .... youtube.com/watch?v=3D0Mp0RrQRA&

In reply to Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing:

Brilliant stuff. Reminds me of meeting another unassuming wad in Pembroke with Mr Marin.

I'd just sent Test Case (E3 5c) and was over the moon. Charlie Woodburn came by, and Ramon went over for a chat while I was tidying up the gear. I wandered over and was introduced, Charlie asked how my day was going and seemed genuinely stoked for me while I blabbered on at great length about my send. After he left, Ramon told me he'd done an E9 first ascent round the corner (Something's Burning) that afternoon. A somewhat humbling but inspirational moment for me.

Climbing is blessed with some great characters, I don't know Ali, but I'll add him to my list of heros

In reply to UKC Videos:

Even from a distance you can see how superb his footwork is

In reply to UKC Videos:

I'm intrigued by the claim of first ascent without pre-placed gear.

Just idly digging around the route's history and came across Yuji Hirayama's ascent which also claims to be led whilst placeing gear. Is it to do with the presence or otherwise of the peg ?

In reply to GrahamD:

The original article has some detail, but basically I think yes the peg is the difference.