UKC

I've noticed some crags such as Red Dragon Ridge and Wray Cleave will be missed out of new the Devon Bouldering guidebook. Is it because access is sensitive? or for editorial purposes such as keeping the guide a reasonable size? or because of the sheer scale of the project?

There will obviously be plenty in there to visit and am asking out of curiosity. 

Dave H is better placed to reply to this in terms of specific venues but I know he won't be able to reply for a while.

We have information on many other venues, including the two you mention. The reasons are as you suspected - a combination of access, space in the book and time to finish it off. 

Many of these are planned to be added to Rockfax Digital which has limitless space and is a safer place for crags with changeable access. Cartoonlands and the Sacrificial Virgin Boulder will be released this week with the rest of the book contents to Rockfax Digital.

Alan

Thanks for satisfying my curiosity! I’m looking forward to seeing the guide. 

I think I should point out that the bouldering venue most at risk access wise (at least as far as I am aware) is Bovey Woods. The landowners have stipulated very clear conditions regarding continued access; these must be adhered to. 

It is highly likely that the woods will be busier than normal this spring as a new guidebook tends to increase footfall.  It is vital that if, on turning up at Bovey Woods there are no obvious parking places, move on to another venue. You may think there's enough room to get past but large tractors/farm vehicles regularly use this road - don't take the risk!

Many other locations (Red Dragon, Cartoonlands, Wray Cleave, Lustleigh) are close at hand and they are all very good. It's only 15 minutes to the Bonehill area and Chudleigh. Your project will still be there when you come back next time!

Thanks.

I’ve wondered myself what impact the guide will have on access to the woods or the woods in general.

I think it’s also important to remember not to use excessive chalk and brush off any tick marks, especially on boulders near or visible from footpaths. And to be considerate when parking for Shaptor.