Ideally well bolted,soft touch non strenuous ... if such a thing exists
Few obvious ones
Rubicon
Lead vein thrombosis
Rakes progress
Afloat in the moat
But less obvious
Strait jacket
Waves of mutilation at horse shoes is a very good first 7a ..
handy wall hole at dale quarry is also a good first 7a..
both tehcy with good rests and on the lower end of the grade
Lead Vein Thrombosis (7a) or Just This Side of 30 (7a)
Absolutely nothing in cheedale if you want a soft touch!
Quality Control (7a) is a softie. Don't bother unless you're there for something else though.
I think most people would agree that Rubicon is a bit strenuous.
Quality control is a favourite first 7a and it might fit the bill
> I think most people would agree that Rubicon is a bit strenuous.
> Quality control is a favourite first 7a and it might fit the bill
I actually did rubicon about 40 years ago and recall it as being more strenuous than an a strenuous thing.. not quite what I’m looking for 😀
Me too. Taking my jumper off at the break (t'was a freezing day) provided some merriment for the spectators.
Wasn't it supposed to be E2 5c originally? By the time I did it, bits had dropped off and it had inched up to E3 (hmm...) Did it again, yonks later, with more bits dropped off (but bolts!) at 7a. Seemed OK, but obviously strenuous. Would think it's pretty polished now. (Went back there last year and couldn't believe the popularity/wear and tear in that alcove.)
Quality Control used to be great, and very onsightable if you press on. But maybe also very polished now?
You probably want suitable recommendations on not as badly worn stuff, at more recently developed venues (but not tottering heaps).
Mick
> You probably want suitable recommendations on not as badly worn stuff, at more recently developed venues (but not tottering heaps).
I'd be interested too! Similar criteria to JimR.
> You probably want suitable recommendations on not as badly worn stuff, at more recently developed venues (but not tottering heaps).
Coot Reboot (7a) has been upgraded to 7a and is well bolted and soft (assuming you clip stick the first bolt or use a pad to get there)
Shady Business (7a) thought this was good and soft (nearly flashed which would be good for me), and well bolted although is a slight shame it relies on some drill enhanced holds
Whisper (6c+) at Stoney West, soft touch if maybe a little bit strenuous at the start, but clever footwork helps!
Lead vein thrombosis is not 7a anymore since the hold improvement.
Out of curiosity, what and is the hold improvement and when did it happen?
No idea when, kgshoots did it yesterday and concurred (see deep rake logbook) that it has got massively easier and a generous crimp has appeared on the headwall.
That's a shame, but to be fair all those routed are somewhat in a state of flux, its not the most solid of crags!
Moat Afloat (7a) next to afloat in the moat is slightly soft for 7a I thought.
Cattle Mutilation Expedition (6c+) is a fairly soft but very nice 6C+.
The Colostomy Finish (7a) is a good 7a - just one fairly tough move after a nice long 6C.
Waves of Mutilation (7a) has already been mentioned - it seems very soft for 7a, especially if you compare it to Demolition Man. There is a suggestion that the crux is now easier thanks to a new hold that appeared sometime
Pretty sure Rubicon was originally regarded as E4 when Tom Proctor freed it. Sadly I no longer have any of my guidebooks from back then to check.
You might well be right. First time around, they definitely told me it was E3. But then they would do!
Early on, there were a few dodgy gradings. The first route I ever did in WCJ was given HVS. Looked like a reasonable warm-up. Technically a doddle, but snappy flakes and crap gear. Would have been easy to deck, if you weren't careful. Now E3. (Lapin?)
All I learned about the second route was, "It's 5b..." Which covers a multitude of sins! A very early ascent of Dragonflight (E3, 5c?)
Went back last year and couldn't believe how neglected the upper buttresses seemed.
Mick
Can't believe nobody's mentioned Cairn... Probably the best F7a in the Peak!
Not the softest, but not the hardest either... Apparently it even has an additional bolt now so definitely safe too.
So good I did it twice, apparently!
Allthough Cairn is indeed a brilliant route, I think its verging on 7a+ either way definitely not soft!
It's not mega soft unless you're taller than average, I agree, but it's never F7a+!
> All I learned about the second route was, "It's 5b..." Which covers a multitude of sins! A very early ascent of Dragonflight (E3, 5c?)
> Mick
Ah Bancroft 5b! A somewhat elastic grade.
I was traversing under Dragonflight yesterday, didn’t fancy going up!
Nor me, any more. Too many people have decked out round there and knackered themselves.
Mick
> Rubicon is really overrated and it’s straightforward
If you don't stop!
Mick
> Ah Bancroft 5b! A somewhat elastic grade.
Dragonflight was done by Chris Jackson, who gave it HVS because he didn‘t consider himself capable of putting up a Peak XS. It stayed at HVS for 15 years!
Having done it now I'd go along with Aperta (7a) being what you're after. Nice moves between good rests. Not strenuous. Relatively good looking line. Gets all the morning sun. Nicely bolted (doesn't look it at first but when you've found all the holds it is). Soft, but not so much that it would get downgraded. And the warm-up route is quite enjoyable in itself.
I was in Chee Dale on Sunday and the only dry crag was plum buttress and even two tier was very damp
It’s been about 13 years since I last did it so I’m sure the polish has increased since then. Don’t remember it being that bad but my memory isn’t great these days. Do remember It being good tho. By your reckoning it is perfect fodder for the OP (as long as they don’t mind a bit of polish 😉)…
and I have added new stainless steel maillons and rings to prevent people from too roping through the belays and burning them out