User Comments
This is the one mountain route I really want to do, possibly next summer. How bold is it? It looks quite bold here! Also I have heard the belays are poor?
Martin McKenna - Rockfax - 25/Oct/13
To be honest I can't really remember how bold it is; it was towards the top end of E2 but no harder. I've heard the stories of massive run outs from its earlier years, but now I think that's not so much the case. From what I remember the easier pitches (5a/easy 5b) have some pretty big run outs but with fairly steady climbing for E2. The traverse here was a bit run out I guess, but soon you get to good pro in the final crack. From what I remember of seconding the crux second pitch its a slimy traverse away from decent gear and how bold it feels will depend as much on the amount of slime as the run out...don't get put off though...there's only 5 metres of slimy rock on the whole route, or was when we did it anyway and it had only been dry for a few days.
I really wanted to do this route too before I did it, couldn't believe my luck when we did it. It's the kind of route which feels like it deserves to have been on your tick list for 10 years before you do it so you can give it the lusting for that it deserves.
tim newton - 25/Oct/13
I really wanted to do this route too before I did it, couldn't believe my luck when we did it. It's the kind of route which feels like it deserves to have been on your tick list for 10 years before you do it so you can give it the lusting for that it deserves.
I don't remember being particularly concerned about the quality of any of the belays
tim newton - 26/Oct/13
Thanks! Next summer it is then.
Martin McKenna - Rockfax - 27/Oct/13