Gt.Gable: Climbers Traverse & Sphinx Ridge Walking

Revering Great Gable as an icon of the Lakes seems to be the done thing, yet most walkers' routes up this big squat lump are undistinguished plods that fail to do it justice. But for anyone willing to get a bit hands-on there is one glaring exception. This exploratory wander over, under and around the hill's complex southern crags gives one of the most exciting and diverse long scrambles in England. The route breaks down into three distinct sections: the famous Climber's Traverse beneath the impressive crags of The Napes, with the option to 'thread' Napes Needle (symbolic birthplace of rock climbing); the ascent of Sphinx Ridge, the westernmost and only scrambler-friendly one of The Napes' big ridge climbs; and as a bargain bonus en route to the top, an unexpected little gem of a ridge on Westmorland's Crag. You can probably do without a rope, but given the nature of the ground on this route a helmet would not be a bad idea.

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Getting high on Sphinx Ridge
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Detailed description

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NY2354112207 There are alternative approaches to Sty Head from Wasdale or Langdale but the start in Borrowdale is probably convenient for most people. From Seathwaite farm in Borrowdale take the main path south, quickly meeting Grains Gill. The path follows its east bank for about 1km. Cross old the stone arch of Stockley Bridge and climb quite steely west on a well laid path to pass above the secretive little gorge of Taylorgill Force. Follow Styhead Gill to Styhead Tarn, a scenic but much over-used wild camping spot. Sty Head itself is a a little further on. This major junction of several paths can be confusing in the mist.

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NY2184209475 The Climber's Traverse From the mountain rescue stretcher box on Sty Head briefly follow the well-trodden trail towards Great Gable. Very soon cut left onto the rather less busy Climber’s Traverse. The name is a clue; this is the access route to the popular Napes crags. First cross heaped boulders below the buttress of Kern Knotts, then follow a rising traverse over scree slopes to reach craggy ground beneath The Napes. This complicated sprawl of cliff is split into several ridges and gullies, proving confusing on a first visit. The unmistakeable landmark of Napes Needle soon makes itself apparent overhead. Competent scramblers can climb through the gap separating this famous pinnacle from the main crag, a ploy known as 'threading the needle'; it is the hardest obstacle of the day. To do so leave the main traverse path and follow your nose up steep broken ground until directly under the gap. Climb the very polished chimney/groove on the right side of Napes Needle with some difficulty, then descend the shorter but equally steep and polished west side. Now cross a chossy gully and go left to an exposed ledge called the Dress Circle, with a classic view of Napes Needle - there are usually climbers in-situ. Traverse west, passing through a narrow gap between a flake and the main crag, then descend shiny rock to enter another gully. Keep traversing (some loose ground) until confronted by the pinnacle known as The Sphinx (it's obvious why). This is officially a rock climb and perhaps best not attempted, but it does serve the useful purpose of marking the bottom of Sphinx Ridge.

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NY2089909993 Sphinx Ridge The Climber's Traverse continues west to meet the Gavel Neese path up Great Gable, but you don't have to take this opt-out. the Lake District is not blessed with many decent scrambling ridges, but Sphinx Ridge is definitely a good'un. Climbers on The Napes often use it as a descent route, but it is worthwhile in its own right too. Quit the Traverse path just before reaching the buttress that backs The Sphinx and go carefully right up an unsafe scree gully. As soon as practical, move left onto the crest of Sphinx Ridge at a level pinnacled section. Climb a couple of airy pinnacles to reach a slabby rib, which is climbed in quite an exciting position until the difficulty forces you right. Foot traverse a narrow heathery ledge across the rib’s right flank to briefly re-enter the gully. From here just follow the upper crest, with discontinuous rocky sections where you can alter the line to suit your ability. The last (optional) obstacle is a steep wall with some suspect blocks, topped by a polished groove. Above this Sphinx Ridge merges with the unusual neck that forms the junction of all The Napes' ridges. Walk up the grassy crest.

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NY2097810114 Westmorland's Crag Above you is the confusing mass of Westmorland’s Crag. A hands-free path avoids it to the left, but it is definitely worth climbing. It's technically easier than the stuff you've already done (grade 1 / 2), but with more challenging route finding. Look for a faint path on the right side of the grass crest, traversing scree to the base of the crag. Ignore the first obvious rib, and then a second set slightly higher, to reach a third rib with a block at its base, a gully to its right and a distinctive tower up on its skyline. Signs of previous parties lead up a short corner, giving onto the broad crest. now ad-lib at will up a pleasant collection of little walls, blocks and ledges. Some small pinnacles can be done head-on, or skirted on the right. Unfortunately it's all finished too soon. Walk over Great Gable's stony summit plateau to join the throngs on top.

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NY2109210301 The quickest way off is the stone-surfaced path down Gable’s steep southeast side back to Sty Head. Alternatively it's worth making a longer circuit out of it. The obvious option is to continue northeast over the plateau, to pick up a rough path that descends to the right of Gable Crag to reach the pronounced col called Windy Gap (no prizes for guessing why). From here a short climb gains the top of Green Gable, which has a small stone wind break and a good outlook on Gable Crag and down the length of Ennerdale.

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NY2146810717 A path descends easily towards the top of Base Brown, but before getting this far it cuts left to drop into the hanging valley of Gillercombe. From the mouth of this a flagstone-paved path descends quite steeply alongside Sourmilk Gill to reach Seathwaite.


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