Restricted Access
There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.
Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite.
Access restrictions under CRoW sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.
2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th
These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 May to 30 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.
Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page.
These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.
Rockfax Description
Start below the centre of the face and climb until sloping holds lead diagonally right towards the arete. After a couple of moves up, traverse back left to join The Kirkus Original. Easy but unprotected and a long way above a poor landing; care required. © Rockfax
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Stanage 100 VD - VS , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Severe Stanage , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit TOP 500: S and VS , Stanage Solo , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 HS , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Row & Tom's Stanage HS Challenge , Stanage HS Challenge
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Iain Thow | 17 Mar, 2007 |
Show βeta
βeta: STill think this is V Diff. Soloed it soon after starting climbing & found it ok (take a deep breath at the crux), it's in balance & moving onto a good ledge. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: STill think this is V Diff. Soloed it soon after starting climbing & found it ok (take a deep breath at the crux), it's in balance & moving onto a good ledge. |
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| Si dH | 22 Jul, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: unprotcted above a nasty landing on sloping ledges. Try it in the wet! People saying vdiff are dumb. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: unprotcted above a nasty landing on sloping ledges. Try it in the wet! People saying vdiff are dumb. |
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| ericinbristol | 24 Jun, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: HS is right for this - no gear until it's all over! VDiff is totally wrong. Your average VDiff leader would get a nasty fright on this, as it is a solo and the landing is awful. Moves are 4a. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: HS is right for this - no gear until it's all over! VDiff is totally wrong. Your average VDiff leader would get a nasty fright on this, as it is a solo and the landing is awful. Moves are 4a. |
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| LakesWinter | 13 May, 2002 |
Show βeta
βeta: This is a fine climb. but I have to seriously dispute the grading, granted it is unprotected but no harder than severe, V Diff was fine in my opinion, and I only lead VS on a good day so this isn't the opinion of some E5 leader, if you lead severe and like slabby things this is a good route | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: This is a fine climb. but I have to seriously dispute the grading, granted it is unprotected but no harder than severe, V Diff was fine in my opinion, and I only lead VS on a good day so this isn't the opinion of some E5 leader, if you lead severe and like slabby things this is a good route |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Stanage Popular
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Upper Tor Wall
Grade: HS 4b ***
(Kinder Southern Edges)