Restricted Access
There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.
Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite.
Access restrictions under CRoW sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.
2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th
These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 May to 30 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.
Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page.
These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.
Rockfax Description
A bit of proper class - how good is your rope-work? Start up the crack in the arete then head left to out-flank the first overhang. Move up to a deep break then make an awkward traverse back to the right to gain the ledge round the corner. Finish direct. © Rockfax
FA. Maurice Linnel early 1930s.
Ticklists
Top 23 UKC Climbed Climbs , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , Eastern Grit Jamming , 100 Stanage stars , 29 Routes, 87 Stars, 1 E Point each , Stanage 100 VD - VS , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Northern (Yorkshire !?) Climbs for a Southerner , Chatsworth to Bamford , CUMC Ticklist , Peak district Road To Ruins Diff-VS , 3 Star Stanage , Stanage Wishlist , Definitive *** Peak Grit , The Ultimate SUMC Ticklist , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Consolidation and developmental path to VS , Stanage 'The Popular End, Orange Spot Heaven'. 12 routes, 36 stars! , The Gritlist , Severe Stanage , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit TOP 500: S and VS , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , 50 more great HS routes , Every 3 Starred HVS and Under Gritstone , Ultimate List of Peak District Crack Climbs , LMC Lady Crushers 3* Extravaganza , Eastern Grit Wishlist , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 HS , Top 20 UKC Gritstone Climbs , Climber's Club Jamfest List Meet , Peaky , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Essential grit ticks for the aspiring trad leader , 28 3 Stars For 28 In The Peak , Stanage Ticklist , Row & Tom's Stanage HS Challenge , Stanage HS Challenge , Stanage 1956
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| ViolentSciolist | 15 Jul, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Grab the corner of the arete with your right hand and step into a squat on the smear with your right foot. I have tiny hands. No fist jam needed. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Grab the corner of the arete with your right hand and step into a squat on the smear with your right foot. I have tiny hands. No fist jam needed. |
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| BertieP42 | 17 Apr, 2020 |
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βeta: Scary rockover with fist jam in horizontal crack | ||
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βeta: Scary rockover with fist jam in horizontal crack |
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| Jon Greengrass | 27 Jan, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Unless you've got enormous fists the traverse back right onto the front face is not easy, Beta alert! there is a good crimp deep in the break otherwise try hugging the blunt arete. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Unless you've got enormous fists the traverse back right onto the front face is not easy, Beta alert! there is a good crimp deep in the break otherwise try hugging the blunt arete. |
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| Fidget | 3 Apr, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: Amazing route! Totally deserving of it's 3 stars and not a bit of polish anywhere (although maybe I've just jinxed it by saying that). Found the horizontal break a bit small for fists and large for a hand jam, which led to an interesting belly flop onto the ledge. The finish isn't a walk in the park either when it's blowing a gale, which adds to the excitement! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Amazing route! Totally deserving of it's 3 stars and not a bit of polish anywhere (although maybe I've just jinxed it by saying that). Found the horizontal break a bit small for fists and large for a hand jam, which led to an interesting belly flop onto the ledge. The finish isn't a walk in the park either when it's blowing a gale, which adds to the excitement! |
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| Richard Hession | 10 Feb, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Thought it was pretty easy compared to some other HS's I've done before. The traverse right was great fun especially when you find the crimp near the back of the break! :) HS 4b is about right | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Thought it was pretty easy compared to some other HS's I've done before. The traverse right was great fun especially when you find the crimp near the back of the break! :) HS 4b is about right |
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| Si dH | 22 Jul, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: Great route altho harder than all the other classic HSs at Stanage Pop eg. april + christmas cracks or RHRHBD IMHO - not that Im saying it should be upgraded, its about right. The traverse back across was ok using a crimp deep in the break, as for fist-jams.... Id need a break at least 1.5 times that size to jam my fist in it, nearer to a hand-jam! | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Great route altho harder than all the other classic HSs at Stanage Pop eg. april + christmas cracks or RHRHBD IMHO - not that Im saying it should be upgraded, its about right. The traverse back across was ok using a crimp deep in the break, as for fist-jams.... Id need a break at least 1.5 times that size to jam my fist in it, nearer to a hand-jam! |
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| Simon Caldwell | 7 Jun, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: The direct variant Manchester United HVS 5b is also well worth doing - much easier for the tall :) | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The direct variant Manchester United HVS 5b is also well worth doing - much easier for the tall :) |
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| leon | 13 Apr, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: this has got to be one of the best grit routes i've done. brilliant moves on positive holds | βeta? | |
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βeta: this has got to be one of the best grit routes i've done. brilliant moves on positive holds |
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| Stefan Kruger | 5 Apr, 2002 |
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βeta: Budding leaders will probably find this hard for the grade. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Budding leaders will probably find this hard for the grade. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Stanage Popular
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P.M.C.1
Grade: HS 4a ***
(Curbar Edge)