Restricted Access
There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.
Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite.
Access restrictions under CRoW sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.
2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th
These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 May to 30 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.
Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page.
These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.
Rockfax Description
This long straight crack is a must; mild for the grade, but sustained. Climb a V-groove to the crack and follow it with pleasure. The final leaning corner is awkward and there is also an exposed alternative out left. The only route in the Peak where you will be queuing every 25th December come hail or shine! © Rockfax
FA. George Bower 1926.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 50 , Dear Santa , Connoisseur's Classic Rock , Top 23 UKC Climbed Climbs , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , Eastern Grit Jamming , 100 Stanage stars , Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck , 29 Routes, 87 Stars, 1 E Point each , 50 Best HS Routes in the UK. , Stanage 100 VD - VS , Tom Randall's Classic Hand cracks , Tis the season , World Graded List , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Northern (Yorkshire !?) Climbs for a Southerner , Peak Rock/3/ A Decade of Expansion , King of VDiff , The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist , Chatsworth to Bamford , Stanage for Crack Apprentices , AMC Uni Ticklist , 50 of the Best , 50 Stars in 20 Routes at Stanage Popular , WideBoyz Crack School , Top 50 Peak Cracks , Peak district Road To Ruins Diff-VS , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Tom Ripley's best UK HS climbs , Rockfax Eastern Grit (2015) Top 50 , #RadTradGirl UK HS/VS climbs Easter 2017 , 3 Star Stanage , Definitive *** Peak Grit , Welcome to CUMC , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Rockfax Peak Gritstone East (2001) Top 50 , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 50 - First ten , Adele & Dave , Stan , Definitive Eastern Grit top 50- 2001, 2006 and 2015 editions , Stanage 'The Popular End, Orange Spot Heaven'. 12 routes, 36 stars! , The Gritlist , Severe Stanage , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit TOP 500: S and VS , Stanage Solo , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , 30 Stars at Stanage , Eastern Grit Crack School - Part 1 , Every 3 Starred HVS and Under Gritstone , Ultimate List of Peak District Crack Climbs , LMC Lady Crushers 3* Extravaganza , Eastern Grit Wishlist , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 HS , 100 Best Routes on Grit , The Wishlist Challenge , LSMC to do , Top 20 UKC Gritstone Climbs , Climber's Club Jamfest List Meet , Seb's Recommendations , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Dan’s Delights , 28 3 Stars For 28 In The Peak , Off The Radar 300, Every Crag in The Peak , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , MUMC 2023 Fundraiser Routes , Peak grit , Row & Tom's Stanage HS Challenge , Stanage HS Challenge , Grit Starred routes aspirations 2023 , Diffage Comp , UKC Gritstone Top 20 Wishlist Climbs , Morgan's List
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| clecoeur | 9 Jul, 2023 |
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βeta: a pleasure !!! | βeta? | |
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βeta: a pleasure !!! |
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| Tall Oak | 5 Nov, 2022 |
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βeta: What a fun route. | βeta? | |
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βeta: What a fun route. |
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| Paul Tomo | 19 Jul, 2006 |
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βeta: This is a very good route all the way to the top and very good for gear, weather was to hot temp was about 38c on the face and not a great deal of friction. good for grade | βeta? | |
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βeta: This is a very good route all the way to the top and very good for gear, weather was to hot temp was about 38c on the face and not a great deal of friction. good for grade |
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| howlingbaboon | 12 Jun, 2006 |
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βeta: Splendid Route, the tricam'a still there, I almost lost a 2nd one near the bottom. Many thanks to the guy who recued it. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Splendid Route, the tricam'a still there, I almost lost a 2nd one near the bottom. Many thanks to the guy who recued it. |
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| Sam Doyle | 25 Dec, 2005 |
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βeta: Climbed this route on Christmas Day. The queue was there as promised. Cheers to the climber who left the mince pie half way up. I'd recommend this route to anyone. Its an easy HS with as much gear in it as you can carry and even some you dont have to. Enjoy. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Climbed this route on Christmas Day. The queue was there as promised. Cheers to the climber who left the mince pie half way up. I'd recommend this route to anyone. Its an easy HS with as much gear in it as you can carry and even some you dont have to. Enjoy. |
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| sheffieldchris | 30 Oct, 2005 |
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βeta: did this route for the first time on christmas morning, get there early it gets very busy and you are `forced to drink the grog` if you wait even worse for wear still ok at HS oh and santa soloed it behind me | βeta? | |
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βeta: did this route for the first time on christmas morning, get there early it gets very busy and you are `forced to drink the grog` if you wait even worse for wear still ok at HS oh and santa soloed it behind me |
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| Dominion | 24 Sep, 2005 |
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βeta: Having said that, the start section is probably why it gets HS. A confident Severe leader may well find the bottom of this route a good introduction to Hard Severe. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Having said that, the start section is probably why it gets HS. A confident Severe leader may well find the bottom of this route a good introduction to Hard Severe. |
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| Dominion | 24 Sep, 2005 |
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βeta: Fantastic route, on a good day. My 5th HS lead, loads of gear when you want it, and have cams of the same size(ish) - and lovely moves in it all the way up. The huge jugs on the top section - which I wasn't looking at too happily at from the ground - were a bonus, and a relief. Well deserves it's 3 stars, but HS is maybe a touch too high... Then again, possibly a touch hard for a S 4a. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Fantastic route, on a good day. My 5th HS lead, loads of gear when you want it, and have cams of the same size(ish) - and lovely moves in it all the way up. The huge jugs on the top section - which I wasn't looking at too happily at from the ground - were a bonus, and a relief. Well deserves it's 3 stars, but HS is maybe a touch too high... Then again, possibly a touch hard for a S 4a. |
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| Si dH | 22 Jul, 2004 |
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βeta: several 4a moves but id say quite easy for HS. Certainly April Crack and Manc Buttress are quite a bit harder. | βeta? | |
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βeta: several 4a moves but id say quite easy for HS. Certainly April Crack and Manc Buttress are quite a bit harder. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Stanage Popular
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Manchester Buttress
Grade: HS 4b ***
(Stanage Popular)