Restricted Access
There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.
Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite.
Access restrictions under CRoW sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.
2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th
These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 May to 30 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.
Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page.
These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.
Rockfax Description
From a block, pull over the overlap and stand in the horizontal break awkwardly then tackle the sketchy slab above. © Rockfax
FA. Chris Craggs 1985.
Ticklists
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| SimonWooden | 16 Jul, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: After start, I eventually found that I could reach good cam which I’d used earlier on Feathered Friends. Not sure it’s in the bargain but I wouldn’t be keen on the next moves without it. Route should be described as following in the line of the blind vertical crack up from start. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: After start, I eventually found that I could reach good cam which I’d used earlier on Feathered Friends. Not sure it’s in the bargain but I wouldn’t be keen on the next moves without it. Route should be described as following in the line of the blind vertical crack up from start. |
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| leon | 17 Jul, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: no, i checked the route again. i was on perforation. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: no, i checked the route again. i was on perforation. |
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| Northern Mountain Monkey | 12 May, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: In reply to leon skeldon: I think you were talking about feathered friends? And I did put a side runner in, the gear in the flake is rather sketchy! NMM | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: In reply to leon skeldon: I think you were talking about feathered friends? And I did put a side runner in, the gear in the flake is rather sketchy! NMM |
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| leon | 28 Aug, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: i don't think the slab and wall above are anywhere near as difficult as the opening moves (i'd say 4b). but unless you place a cheeky side runner (is it in?) don't fall off!! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: i don't think the slab and wall above are anywhere near as difficult as the opening moves (i'd say 4b). but unless you place a cheeky side runner (is it in?) don't fall off!! |
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| Simon Caldwell | 28 Jul, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: The slab and wall didn't feel easier to me. I've done easier E1s. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The slab and wall didn't feel easier to me. I've done easier E1s. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Stanage North
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Congo Corner
Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Stanage Popular)